"Le Pied à Coulisse", first ~8C+ in Font
by Björn Pohl - UKC 20/Jan/2016
Guillaume Glairon Mondet has med the first ascent of "Le Pied à Coulisse", the direct exit to Chaos, at Rocher Gréau, Fontainebleau. Guillaume suggests 8C+ which would make it the hardest in Fontainebleau and a contender for the hardest anywhere.
Perfect conditions in Fontainebleau has made possible for many high end ascent by the locals and visitors lucky enough to rock up at the right time. Gui gui Mondet made the best of these conditions and managed to make the first ascent of a problem he has been working on and off for three years; the direct exit to Chaos.
It's the same sit start as Chaos, but you quickly reach out through to the roof, to join a mantle on the left of the boulder. Some really powerfull moves, on good crimps, including some really strenuous body tension positions. Then, the mantle is for me the hardest and low percentage part of the boulder, where to succeed you must find the perfect body position...
About the grade, he says that for him this is usually the hardest part, but that Here in Font, I have more experience and I have done most of the hardest problems of the forest. One thing is clear for me though: this problem seems to be of a new level of difficulty in the forest, a lot harder than the other things I have already done.
I will never say that I have climbed the hardest boulder in the world, but I think many things make it complicated. I hope that the bouldering "world" stars will come soon to try it, and I know that many of them arrive in the forest soon .. !!