The hardest circuit in Fontainebleau
Photo: Kevin Smith
The black ED+ circuit in Cuisinière is the hardest circuit in Fontainebleau and despite being decades old, word has it it's never been climbed in a day. The fact alone that the very last boulder on the circuit is the infamous slab Duel (8A) has kept it an exclusive challenge.
I found the circuit to be a real test of climbing skill - being strong will only get you so far. The boulders range between every style testing technique above all. Crimps, slopers, slabs, aretes, dynos, highballs, mantles - you have it all. Mental strength is needed on the highballs. The point is that in order to make it through the entire circuit you need to climb well and efficiently.
After a couple of days locating and sussing out the boulders and brushing some of the less popular ones from underneath the moss, I gave it a shot. At 5 hours 8 minutes I got to the top of the last boulder with no skin to spare, already bleeding on the last attempt! Feels great to complete something that I remember seeing in the guidebook and laughing at because it seemed so ridiculously hard. To top it off I nearly had the 'perfect game' falling just one time on Duel.
Must have learned a thing or two over the years!
Stay tuned for a video capturing the whole circuit!
Re-climbing some old classics here in Font! I've been getting psyched on the idea of trying to do the unclimbed black circuit in Cuisinierè. Duel (8A) the infamous slab took me years to figure out in typical Font style and now having learned the method it's hard to understand why. Duel is the very last boulder on the circuit so need to get it wired!
Hier ist ein Facebook-Video zu finden.