Productive Day in Moravian, by Adam Ondra

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Productive day in Moravian Karst

Nunavut 8C FA
Pučmeloun 8C FA
Intensitos 8B FA

One of the best days bouldering for sure. Both 8C's are projects that I have had in my mind for a some time, I had tried them quite a bit in the past, I knew they were possible, I just needed to wait for the perfect day. And the day was yesterday. High psyche after a stint of indoor climbing, and perfect late autumn conditions. Both went down first try this time after rechecking the moves.
Pic by @konecnik

Adam-Ondra-Productive-Day-in-Moravian

„Bokassas Fridge Assassin Monkey and Man“

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Ten years ago Toni Lamprecht made the iconic first ascent of 'Bokassa's Fridge - Assassin Monkey and Man' in Kochel after working it for years and therefore proposing the grade fb 8C+ / V16. It took until spring 2019 until the first repeat by Chris Rauch, who then said it's only fb 8C / V15. Meanwhile also Flo Schmalzl made his way to the top, making my ascent the 4th. I started to dream about climbing this line last autumn, when Chris found a nice beta for shorties. But due to the good weather that season I preferably went to other areas and not to Kochel. More or less the same in spring until Chris and Flo repeated the problem. After their ascents I decided to try it again, too. But it was already late in season why it didn't make much sense continue trying. Therefore I postponed projecting it until this autumn. And that was a good decision as I still felt in good shape from 'The Neverending Story' and even better than in spring. It took me five more sessions to make it to the top on November the 11th. But see for yourself...

‚Ghost Rider‘

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Moravian Karst is an area where I started climbing and it still remains very special for me. It is definitely a climbing area where I spent the most of the time, ever! Great thing is that it still offers serious challenge for me, especially in bouldering. The next episode of RtT shows me making the second ascent of Ghost Rider 8C after Martin Stráník opened it this summer.

Primitivo 8C/V15 First Ascent

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Primitivo is one of the best new problems in the world situated in Val Bavona, in Ticino, CH. FA circa April 2019.

Climbers:

Isabelle Faus
Daniel Woods
Giuliano Cameroni
Jimmy Webb

Filmed by the crew//edit by Giuliano

'Quoi de Neuf'

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Manu Cornu in "Quoi de Neuf" 8c

Manu Cornu in "Quoi de Neuf" 8c

Jan Hojer in "Quoi de Neuf" 8c

Jan-Hojer-in-Quoi-de-Neuf

'From Dirt Grows The Flowers'

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Chris Rauch sends the classic Dave Graham boulder 'From Dirt Grows The Flowers' fb 8C/V15 in Chironico. With this sent he adds another highend testpiece to his impressive scorecard.

Karoshi-first ascent

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Back in early 2018, my friend Keith Allen Peters and I headed over to the New Map of Hell boulder. We both quickly noticed that there was a line of holds that went directly out the steep overhang. We chalked them up and I quickly became obsessed with the line. Day after day, this was all I could think about!

Temperatures started to warm up and I knew I was going to have to wait until the next season to get on this project again.

Fast forward to December 2018... Katerina and I were on a plane from Denver to El Paso. I had one goal in my mind, climb the New Map project!

I spent a total of two weeks trying this thing more or less day on followed by a day off because of how sharp the boulder problem is. Thankfully by the end of the trip, I had the boulder problem pretty dialed in. It was just going to take that lucky try to get it done!

I hope you enjoy the video! Please subscribe if you are not already! More great things to come in 2019...

"Practice Of The Wild 8C" by Will Bosi

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Awesome work by young @adidasterrex, @fiveten_official star @will_bosi. With his quick send of the legendary @chris_sharma problem Practice Of The Wild 8C Will becomes the second Scot to climb at this level. Not bad for a 19 year old!

Siehe auch:

Story - "Practice of the Wild" 8c

"Als ich damals mit Freunden im Averstal war, trafen wir dort Chris Sharma,der auch im Edelweiß-Matratzenlager schlief. Es war der Tag, nachdem er nach kurzem Auschecken am Vorabend, dass Langzeitprojekt "Neverending Story" erstbegehen konnte.

Im Juni 2003 gelang Chris Sharma die Erstbegehung eines damals heiß umworbenen Boulderproblems. Er konnte die "Unendliche Geschichte 1" (8b trav) mit der "Unendliche Geschichte 2"(8a bloc) verbinden. Heraus kam "Neverending Story 3" (8b+)"  

WEITERLESEN

Video - Will Bosi in "Practice Of The Wild"
Video - Will Bosi in "Practice Of The Wild"

Christof Rauch wiederholt “Highlander” Sustenpass

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Christof-Rauch-in-Highlander

Christof Rauch wiederholt “Highlander” im Sustenpass (CH)

Sein Kommentar:

“This was one of the craziest days I've ever had! At the beginning of the day I hurt my ankle pretty bad and couldn't jump down on my feet. Since I felt really strong and the drive home is quite long for me I decided to still give the Highlander a few tries. Seems like low expectations are the key for me on this powerendurance-monsters! After a huge fight I managed to nab the second ascent of this masterpiece by Martin Keller. About the grade, I am not really sure, probably 8B+/C?!
At the end of the day I barely could walk back to the car and my foot was really swollen, later I went to the hospital and found out that I got lucky and my tendons are just strained quite bad.”

Tekute-Stesti

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Martin-Stranic-in-Tekute-Stesti

Das Wiederholer-Video auf instagram findet ihr im unteren Link.

Adam Ondras 2nd ascent of Tekute Stesti 8C after @martin.stranik.
One of the best in Moravsky kras!