Catalán Witness the fitness

(Kommentare: 0)

Check the link in my profile for my new YouTube channel and the video of the first ascent of "Catalan Witness the Fitness" (a new Boulder I did last month in Cova de Ocell. It was so cool to dive back in to bouldering after so many years mostly just sport climbing. Enjoy this episode and stay tuned as we share more videos soon!

Martin Stranik in "Catalán Witness the fitness"

Beto Rocasolano in "Catalán Witness the fitness"

Nacho Sánchez in Nacho "Catalán Witness the Fitness"

Catalan Witness the Fitness 8B+ Dave MacLeod

“Dai's Video Diaries Vol.6”

(Kommentare: 0)

Payback time for ‘Unplugged’. Documenting a trip to Germany with redpoint of ‘Corona’ 5.15a, and other highlights on Frankenjura in autumn and clips of attempts on Unglugged in 2008.

Source: Ikuko Serata

We have completed and released “Dai's Video Diaries Vol.6” in December, 2017, and two short films from this Volume titled “NAYUTA V16” and “FRANKENJURA” became available on Vimeo from January this year.

They are on sale now and getting a lot of attention, and we hope that greater more number of climbers all over the world will be excited to see them. This video volume is the latest of DVD series we have been producing since 2005, called “Dai's Video Diaries” with Volumes 1 to 6. Digital downloading service on Vimeo (account is project_daihold) has been provided from 2015.

Link: NAYUTA V16
This film portrays Dai Koyamada’s joy of finding a ‘dream line’, days of attempts with aspiration for success and the moment he completed the line he dreamed of. (49min)

Link: FRANKENJURA
Payback time for ‘Unplugged’. Documenting a trip to Germany with redpoint of ‘Corona’ 5.15a, and other highlights on Frankenjura in autumn and clips of attempts on Unglugged in 2008.

Ikuko Serata
Mail : project@daihold.com
Manager : Climbing Gym Project
Director : Daihold Inc,.

"Catalan Witness the Fitness" FLASH

(Kommentare: 0)

Catalan Witness the Fitness

Source: Instagram Jacob Schubert

What a day! Since our flights are quite late we decided to stop at Cova del ocell before heading to the airport.
I already thought this boulder would fit me very well (steep climbing on crimps) and I was right. With the perfect support from @janhojer and @marcojubes I was able to flash it, thanks a lot buddies ????
This boulder has been called fb 8c in the past but as nice as a 8c flash sounds I can't agree, guess it is more like low end 8b+. But who cares, I was very positively surprised how good the rock was and how natural and well this boulder climbs! So psyched!!!! ???? by @marcojubes seconds before my go ????

Quoi de Neuf

(Kommentare: 0)

Quoi de Neuf 8c

Jan-Hojer-in-Quoi-de-Neuf

Drift

(Kommentare: 0)

Drift 8C - A boulderproblem in Holštejn, Moravský kras

Monkey Wedding

(Kommentare: 0)

Charles Albert in "Monkey Wedding"

Charles Albert climbs "Monkey Wedding" 8c barefoot.

Dave Graham in "Monkey Wedding"

island.io

“Massive war WON!!!!! HUGE!!!!!! One of my ultimate-global-nemisis-projects, the legendary @fred_nicole problem Monkey Wedding [8C] which chills in the center of one of Rockland's most popular sectors. Last season I tried the boulder quite a lot, for at least 12 days, but could never seem to improve my highpoint, or do better than one hang the beast, which is only ten moves long. This year I returned partially uncertain of whether or not I could even summit this small peak, my confidence dashed by last years failure. Right off the bench I discovered more intelligent beta, resequencing my old crux, and matched my previous links. Sadly the war continued for another 6 days. I was confused by the conditions, normally cold weather is my jam, but my cursed sweaty fingers never seemed to stop sweating while I sat at basecamp, about two meters from the start of the rig, amidst all types of cold blustery weather, but it was always smarmy and humid somehow. One day, my window presented itself; super hot and a northerly wind, directly from the dry deserts of Africa, I felt something, potentially like an opportunity. I cruised out to Roadside, booted up, warmed on the moves, made a try, fell at the crux, felt great, rested a moment, pulled on, and from that moment on, it was this surreal mind bending experiance. It felt too chill, almost like all the dreams Ive had of ever sending, yet it was real and terrifying, it was my chance to fall off after the crux...but that never happened. I ended up on top, a suprised and happy man, liberated, unleashed, humbled, proud, potentially wiser, and feeling ridicoulous. The moral is, even if you don't believe in yourself, even if you describe a boulder as being built against you, the opposite of your style, outside of your entire box, "impossible" for some reason, if you will. Like you should have done it by now if you were gonna ever do it. You are wrong. You can suceed. You can do anything. Its like the kitten poster from the Lego Movie...which I forget exact wording to. Buzzin.”

Monkey Wedding

(Kommentare: 0)

island.io

“Massive war WON!!!!! HUGE!!!!!! One of my ultimate-global-nemisis-projects, the legendary @fred_nicole problem Monkey Wedding [8C] which chills in the center of one of Rockland's most popular sectors. Last season I tried the boulder quite a lot, for at least 12 days, but could never seem to improve my highpoint, or do better than one hang the beast, which is only ten moves long. This year I returned partially uncertain of whether or not I could even summit this small peak, my confidence dashed by last years failure. Right off the bench I discovered more intelligent beta, resequencing my old crux, and matched my previous links. Sadly the war continued for another 6 days. I was confused by the conditions, normally cold weather is my jam, but my cursed sweaty fingers never seemed to stop sweating while I sat at basecamp, about two meters from the start of the rig, amidst all types of cold blustery weather, but it was always smarmy and humid somehow. One day, my window presented itself; super hot and a northerly wind, directly from the dry deserts of Africa, I felt something, potentially like an opportunity. I cruised out to Roadside, booted up, warmed on the moves, made a try, fell at the crux, felt great, rested a moment, pulled on, and from that moment on, it was this surreal mind bending experiance. It felt too chill, almost like all the dreams Ive had of ever sending, yet it was real and terrifying, it was my chance to fall off after the crux...but that never happened. I ended up on top, a suprised and happy man, liberated, unleashed, humbled, proud, potentially wiser, and feeling ridicoulous. The moral is, even if you don't believe in yourself, even if you describe a boulder as being built against you, the opposite of your style, outside of your entire box, "impossible" for some reason, if you will. Like you should have done it by now if you were gonna ever do it. You are wrong. You can suceed. You can do anything. Its like the kitten poster from the Lego Movie...which I forget exact wording to. Buzzin.”

Practice of the Wild – Beta Video!

(Kommentare: 0)

Two sections of footage linked together for 'Practice of the Wild' in Magic Wood. I'll be back!

Practice of the Wild - Beta Video! from Beastly Squirrel on Vimeo.

Practice of the Wild (Dave MacLeod)

"Wheel of Life" 8C for Alex Barrows

(Kommentare: 0)

by Natalie Berry - UKC 06/Jun/2016
Foto: © Ella Russell

Alex Barrows has climbed his first 8C, ticking "The Wheel of Life" at Hollow Mountain Area bouldering in the Grampians, Australia. The problem is world-famous for its length of ~70 moves and was first climbed by Dai Koyamada in 2004 and originally graded 8C+.


The Wheel links Extreme Cool (7B+) into Sleepy Hollow (8A) into Cave Man (7C) into Dead Can't Dance (8A). 

Describing the problem, Alex told UKC:

"It's ~70 moves all told, so a long way removed from normal bouldering, but not quite route climbing either. It's long enough to make Pilgrimage at Parisella's look almost like a boulder problem though!"

Last April, Alex climbed his first 9a - Era Vella - at Margalef in Spain. As a climber with preferences for long, endurance-heavy routes with knee-bars, how did he think Era Vella compared to Wheel of Life?

"In terms of grade I think the concensus nowadays is 9a as a route grade, or 8B+ as a boulder grade; a bit harder if you don't use kneepads, but I sure as hell did! I thought it was probably lower end 9a, not that I'm particularly qualified to give an opinion compared to some of the previous ascentionists. The climbing is probably harder than that on Era Vella, but then it's a million times easier to work so it should be physically harder to earn a similar grade for the overall challenge. Anyway, it's not really about the grade with this thing, it's about it being The Wheel of Life and about it being awesome fun!"


Writing in his blog, Alex summed up his achievement as follows:

"The deep down contentment of doing a problem which I'd heard of for a decade but never dreamed I could ever climb until the last few years, and never expected to climb until the last few days, seems likely to stay around a little while... at least until I find the next project anyway!"

Dave MacLeod - Practice of the Wild 8C

(Kommentare: 0)

FRI NIGHT VID + INTERVIEW: Dave MacLeod - Practice of the Wild 8C
by Natalie Berry - UKC 27/May/2016

We recently reported on Dave MacLeod's ascent of his first 8C boulder - Practice of the Wild in Magic Wood, Switzerland. A new film in which Dave talks about the process of training for and working the problem has been released by Dark Sky Media and Mountain Equipment. Dave claims he is climbing harder at the age of 37 than he was 10 or 20 years ago - but what has allowed for this improvement? As is typical of Dave, steely dedication and a meticulous approach to training proved essential.

Watch the film and read our interview to find out more...

Had you tried many other 8Cs previously?

No I don’t think I’d tried any. Most of my bouldering is on unclimbed stuff in Scotland. I’ve only had a couple of trips to Chironico around ten years ago and then a few trips to Magic Wood in the last three years.

What made you choose to try Pratice of the Wild as your first 8C, and when did you first try it?

I tried it in 2012 on my first trip in Magic Wood. I couldn’t do any of the hard moves but I just thought it looked like a really inspiring line.

Would you say it was of a particular style that suited or did not suit you?

Well you have some opportunities to use your feet on it, so in that sense it would suit me because I’m pretty weak and need to use my feet. I also did some okay links on In Search of Time Lost (8C) while I was there and that is definitely my anti-style: pure power and fewer chances to make the moves easier with footwork. I’d love to go back and try it someday. If I could do that, I’d definitely have made some real progress in my strength.

For more informations and pictures: ukclimbing.com