Primitivo 8C/V15 First Ascent

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Primitivo is one of the best new problems in the world situated in Val Bavona, in Ticino, CH. FA circa April 2019.

Climbers:

Isabelle Faus
Daniel Woods
Giuliano Cameroni
Jimmy Webb

Filmed by the crew//edit by Giuliano

'Quoi de Neuf'

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Manu Cornu in "Quoi de Neuf" 8c

Manu Cornu in "Quoi de Neuf" 8c

Jan Hojer in "Quoi de Neuf" 8c

Jan-Hojer-in-Quoi-de-Neuf

'From Dirt Grows The Flowers'

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Chris Rauch sends the classic Dave Graham boulder 'From Dirt Grows The Flowers' fb 8C/V15 in Chironico. With this sent he adds another highend testpiece to his impressive scorecard.

Karoshi-first ascent

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Back in early 2018, my friend Keith Allen Peters and I headed over to the New Map of Hell boulder. We both quickly noticed that there was a line of holds that went directly out the steep overhang. We chalked them up and I quickly became obsessed with the line. Day after day, this was all I could think about!

Temperatures started to warm up and I knew I was going to have to wait until the next season to get on this project again.

Fast forward to December 2018... Katerina and I were on a plane from Denver to El Paso. I had one goal in my mind, climb the New Map project!

I spent a total of two weeks trying this thing more or less day on followed by a day off because of how sharp the boulder problem is. Thankfully by the end of the trip, I had the boulder problem pretty dialed in. It was just going to take that lucky try to get it done!

I hope you enjoy the video! Please subscribe if you are not already! More great things to come in 2019...

"Practice Of The Wild 8C" by Will Bosi

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Awesome work by young @adidasterrex, @fiveten_official star @will_bosi. With his quick send of the legendary @chris_sharma problem Practice Of The Wild 8C Will becomes the second Scot to climb at this level. Not bad for a 19 year old!

Siehe auch:

Story - "Practice of the Wild" 8c

"Als ich damals mit Freunden im Averstal war, trafen wir dort Chris Sharma,der auch im Edelweiß-Matratzenlager schlief. Es war der Tag, nachdem er nach kurzem Auschecken am Vorabend, dass Langzeitprojekt "Neverending Story" erstbegehen konnte.

Im Juni 2003 gelang Chris Sharma die Erstbegehung eines damals heiß umworbenen Boulderproblems. Er konnte die "Unendliche Geschichte 1" (8b trav) mit der "Unendliche Geschichte 2"(8a bloc) verbinden. Heraus kam "Neverending Story 3" (8b+)"  

WEITERLESEN

Video - Will Bosi in "Practice Of The Wild"
Video - Will Bosi in "Practice Of The Wild"

Christof Rauch wiederholt “Highlander” Sustenpass

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Christof-Rauch-in-Highlander

Christof Rauch wiederholt “Highlander” im Sustenpass (CH)

Sein Kommentar:

“This was one of the craziest days I've ever had! At the beginning of the day I hurt my ankle pretty bad and couldn't jump down on my feet. Since I felt really strong and the drive home is quite long for me I decided to still give the Highlander a few tries. Seems like low expectations are the key for me on this powerendurance-monsters! After a huge fight I managed to nab the second ascent of this masterpiece by Martin Keller. About the grade, I am not really sure, probably 8B+/C?!
At the end of the day I barely could walk back to the car and my foot was really swollen, later I went to the hospital and found out that I got lucky and my tendons are just strained quite bad.”

Tekute-Stesti

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Martin-Stranic-in-Tekute-Stesti

Das Wiederholer-Video auf instagram findet ihr im unteren Link.

Adam Ondras 2nd ascent of Tekute Stesti 8C after @martin.stranik.
One of the best in Moravsky kras!

Catalán Witness the fitness

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Check the link in my profile for my new YouTube channel and the video of the first ascent of "Catalan Witness the Fitness" (a new Boulder I did last month in Cova de Ocell. It was so cool to dive back in to bouldering after so many years mostly just sport climbing. Enjoy this episode and stay tuned as we share more videos soon!

Martin Stranik in "Catalán Witness the fitness"

Beto Rocasolano in "Catalán Witness the fitness"

Nacho Sánchez in Nacho "Catalán Witness the Fitness"

Catalan Witness the Fitness 8B+ Dave MacLeod

“Dai's Video Diaries Vol.6”

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Payback time for ‘Unplugged’. Documenting a trip to Germany with redpoint of ‘Corona’ 5.15a, and other highlights on Frankenjura in autumn and clips of attempts on Unglugged in 2008.

Source: Ikuko Serata

We have completed and released “Dai's Video Diaries Vol.6” in December, 2017, and two short films from this Volume titled “NAYUTA V16” and “FRANKENJURA” became available on Vimeo from January this year.

They are on sale now and getting a lot of attention, and we hope that greater more number of climbers all over the world will be excited to see them. This video volume is the latest of DVD series we have been producing since 2005, called “Dai's Video Diaries” with Volumes 1 to 6. Digital downloading service on Vimeo (account is project_daihold) has been provided from 2015.

Link: NAYUTA V16
This film portrays Dai Koyamada’s joy of finding a ‘dream line’, days of attempts with aspiration for success and the moment he completed the line he dreamed of. (49min)

Link: FRANKENJURA
Payback time for ‘Unplugged’. Documenting a trip to Germany with redpoint of ‘Corona’ 5.15a, and other highlights on Frankenjura in autumn and clips of attempts on Unglugged in 2008.

Ikuko Serata
Mail : project@daihold.com
Manager : Climbing Gym Project
Director : Daihold Inc,.

"Catalan Witness the Fitness" FLASH

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Catalan Witness the Fitness

Source: Instagram Jacob Schubert

What a day! Since our flights are quite late we decided to stop at Cova del ocell before heading to the airport.
I already thought this boulder would fit me very well (steep climbing on crimps) and I was right. With the perfect support from @janhojer and @marcojubes I was able to flash it, thanks a lot buddies ????
This boulder has been called fb 8c in the past but as nice as a 8c flash sounds I can't agree, guess it is more like low end 8b+. But who cares, I was very positively surprised how good the rock was and how natural and well this boulder climbs! So psyched!!!! ???? by @marcojubes seconds before my go ????