“Upgrade U” FA by Alex Megos

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Video of the first ascent of the boulder "Upgrade U" in the Frankenjura.
 
This project was found around 20 years ago and various climbers in the Frankenjura have attempted it.
I got the tip to try this from Mawi and once I found it, it took me around 10 days to do it, including a lot of beta changes up until the last day.
Doing it didn't feel too bad, after a tiny but very significant change in beta.
I still think though that 8C is an appropriate grade for it and I believe its the hardest boulder in the Frankenjura at the moment.
And yes, it is named after the Beyoncé song ;-)

“Traffic” (3rd Ascent)

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With the heat making its way to Colorado, I am very happy to have snagged the 3rd ascent of, Griffin Whiteside's, "Traffic," V15/8C.

“Satan i Helvete” low start FA by Oriane Bertone

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Soutenez la chaîne en visitant le shop d'EpicTV : https://shop.epictv.com/?utm_source=Y...
Voici les images d’Oriane Bertone dans Satan I Helvete du bas, à Fontainebleau. Une version qui part plus bas que le bloc ouvert par Dave Graham en 2003, et qu’elle propose à 8C.
Une très belle First Ascent, qui fait d'elle la 4eme grimpeuse du monde à sortir un 8C bloc !
 
Satan I Helvete by Alban Levier : https://www.facebook.com/watch/?v=161...
Satan I Helvete by Charles Albert : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IcWz4...

“Kryptos” - second woman to send V15

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For BD Ambassador Kaddi Lehmann, climbing a V15 boulder problem all started with fixing the gears on her old mountain bike. But those accumulated miles she pedaled uphill to Kryptos—an aesthetic limestone seam in the Swiss Jura—pale in comparison to the internal journey she endured to reach the top of that boulder. On that intrepid internal voyage, Lehmann discovered that success didn’t hinge on physical power, but on motivation, belief, and happiness.

This is her story.

Interview by EpicTV

“Iceberg” by Adam Ondra

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ČESKÉ TITULKY JSOU DOSTUPNÉ V NASTAVENÍ VIDEA

Fortunately, the situation looks brighter and we are allowed to go outdoors in my own country. So it is time to test my power at some of the local testpieces. In January, Martin Stranik made the first ascent of Iceberg 8C, so it was an obvious challenge to start after the end of the lockdown.

“Deathstar” by Daniel Woods

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In a galaxy far far away lies a bloc just chillin on the side of the road. It hosts a very powerful line going out the center of the overhang. The crux revolves around a heinous gaston move that makes your shoulder feel like it is going to burst into tiny pieces. Do or Die.

Video by Chad Greedy

Andy Gullsten in his project

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A short film about Andy Gullsten making the first ascent of long-standing project in Piilolampi, Finland.

Filming and Editing: Ville Kurru
2nd Camera: Joonas Sailaranta
Color Grading: Tommy Vänskä
Music: Rinneradio / Kiipii

Silver Lining from Kiipeilyareena on Vimeo.

“Better than chocolate” by Haroun S

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"In terms of footage, this is one of the very best climbing video I've ever had the pleasure of watching" Bjorn Pohl, UKclimbing.com

"for fans of bouldering videos this is most certainly worth adding to your collection" ClimbingNarc

"BTC holds the comparison with big climbing productions" Kletterszene.com

"In short, for a first production, Haroun strikes a blow" Pierre Délas, Kairn.com

As Better Than Chocolate is now celebrating its 8th year anniversary, I have decided to upload it to youtube and make it available for free.

It was my first serious project, was distributed worldwide (Digital Download and DVD) and launched my filmmaking career. At the time I had to build all the filmmaking equipment by hand (slider, gimbal, crane). I went on to shoot documentaries and commercials in almost 25 countries, from the Amazon to the Cederberg Mountains. Enjoy!

--

Better Than Chocolate is a movie about bouldering in Switzerland that features world class ascents up to 8C boulder from Michele Caminati, Paul Robinson, Robert Leistner, Julia Winter, Chris Webb Parsons, Anthony Gullsten, Olivier Mignon, Jule Wurm, Anton Johansson, Antoine Eydoux and Fred Moix. Guest appearance by Fred Nicole. 60'.

// Shot on location in

Magic Wood

Chironico

Cresciano

Brione

San Gottardo

Valais

“Roadkill” First Ascent by S.Raboutou

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Shawn Raboutou takes down the Roadkill project in Valle Bavona, Switzerland.
 
Hoodies out now mellowclimbing.shop
Filmed by: Giuliano Cameroni Shawn Raboutou
Edited by: Shawn Raboutou

“Angeschossenes Wolf” by T.Lamprecht

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"angeschossenes wolf" is a combination of "real absurdistan" (Fb 8C) and the "La Paloma"-exit (Fb 8A) at atlantiswand in the climbing area kochel in south germany, climbed beginning of march. Music: the song "automation" is thankfully recorded for the vid by "g.rag/zelig implosion deluxxe". Watch out for the record release on may 1st 2020! Check out: www.gutfeeling.de AND STAY HEALTHY!!!