Return of the Sleepwalker By Will Bosi
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was the third 9A for the former competitive climber who has already completed Burden of Dreams (9A) and Alphane (9A). The 25-year-old stopped competing in 2021 after having had his best year in 2019, twice placing fourth in the World Cup.
New 9A boulder for Charles Albert
According to grimper.com, the boulder is ten metres long and follows a crack through the roof of a cave on Mont Salève.
In 2019, Albert established Voyageur Face à la Mer de Nuage (Traveler Facing the Sea of Clouds), an 8B boulder which accounts for the final third of the roof crack. In late October this year, Albert was able to link the full ten metre line together for the first ascent, climbing the boulder in his preferred style - barefoot and without kneebars.
The report further suggests that Albert in fact regards the boulder as closer to 9A+ when climbed in his preferred style, but decided that because shoes and kneebars would undeniably make the route easier, he would grade the boulder 9A.
'Experienced in grading', grimper reported, 'he considers it unthinkable, even while scraping heel hooks and jamm[ing] knees, that this long ceiling is of comparable difficulty to the 8C+ that he knows'.
Source: https://www.ukclimbing.com/
Will Bosi upgrades Nova to 8C
Will Bosi has made the second ascent of Jana Švecová's Nova, 8B+, at Moravian Karst, Czech Republic, and has given the boulder an upgrade to 8C.
If the upgrade stands, it would makes Švecová's ascent of Nova the world's first 8C first ascent by a woman, and the fourth female ascent at the grade chronologically.
Speaking to us earlier today, Will said:
'Time-wise, Nova is one of the longest boulder projects I've had! I think compared to the Swiss 8C's I've done, Nova is definitely harder!'
'Compared to a lot, but not all, of the UK 8C's I've done, I think it's harder too. For example Isles of Wonder SDS (f8C+) which I downgraded to 8C only took three sessions, and is definitely not my style. It's hard to compare to the longer ones at Badger Cave, but compared to some of my Raven Tor lines it definitely feels more in line with the harder ones'.
source: www.ukclimbing
"Cuore di pietra"
On the way with the bike, i discovered this awesome roof right next to the path. The next day i went there again with equipment and started cleaning the logical line. A new first ascent was created. The boulder is located below the “Massoneria” area.
From the Astronomy Square at "San Piero" it's about 5 minutes by bike or 15 minutes on foot. If you are interested I can send you the exact location.
Katie Lamb Sends “Box Therapy”
Katie Lamb, 25, has skipped the V15 grade and made the fourth ascent of Daniel Woods’s Box Therapy in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. In doing so she’s become the first woman to climb V16.
“The pieces fit together on Box and quickly it was about silencing my doubts and flipping the switch,” she wrote on Instagram. “It’s a headspace fed as much by days outside shooting the shit as by days alone in the mountains. I spent some time in July walking up to this meadow trying to fill my cup, and I’m pretty happy with how it turned out.”
Lamb, who grew up in the Boston suburbs and has been climbing for most of her life, has previously sent a number of V14s, including classics like New Baseline, The Penrose Step, and Jade. Earlier this year, she made the long-awaited first female ascent of Dave Graham’s Bishop testpiece Spectre, which goes at either V13 or V14+ depending on your size.
Source: Climbing.com
„Sonnenpunk“
After three falls in the last move last week, i was able to climb "Sonnenpunk" with its 33 moves for the first time yesterday in the best conditions.
„Nova“ 8B+ by Jana Svecova (Holstejn)
As an intermediate goal while projecting Terranova, I decided to climb it from the middle, there is an obvious start in boulder Sedni si na kost (8B+) that after two moves leads directly into the second half of Terranova. The first two moves from boulder Sedni si na Kost could be a two-mover 8B boulder, the second part of Terranova is around 8B as well, at least the way that I climb it. I am not sure how hard it is the way that Adam did it, but I will never know as I am too short to climb it that way.
Will Bosi upgrades Nova to 8C
Will Bosi has made the second ascent of Jana Švecová's Nova, 8B+, at Moravian Karst, Czech Republic, and has given the boulder an upgrade to 8C.
If the upgrade stands, it would makes Švecová's ascent of Nova the world's first 8C first ascent by a woman, and the fourth female ascent at the grade chronologically.
Speaking to us earlier today, Will said:
'Time-wise, Nova is one of the longest boulder projects I've had! I think compared to the Swiss 8C's I've done, Nova is definitely harder!'
'Compared to a lot, but not all, of the UK 8C's I've done, I think it's harder too. For example Isles of Wonder SDS (f8C+) which I downgraded to 8C only took three sessions, and is definitely not my style. It's hard to compare to the longer ones at Badger Cave, but compared to some of my Raven Tor lines it definitely feels more in line with the harder ones'.
source: www.ukclimbing
Isabelle Faus „Spidey“ V14+++ Nomad Cave
I climbed this boulder back in March. I think this is the hardest thing i've done so far! I love climbing in this cave, despite it being a drop off, it has some of the most amazing moves and sequences. Spidey gets harder with every move, the first half is v9, then a few moves of v11 climbing, and ending with a hard v13. It looks long but def more of a power boulder than and endurance climb. Super proud to have climbed a low angle crimpy V14 with Grinch back in February, and then a steep slopey one a month later. Grateful to my body, for the time I get to be outside, and for good times with friends!