“Massive war WON!!!!! HUGE!!!!!! One of my ultimate-global-nemisis-projects, the legendary @fred_nicole problem Monkey Wedding [8C] which chills in the center of one of Rockland's most popular sectors. Last season I tried the boulder quite a lot, for at least 12 days, but could never seem to improve my highpoint, or do better than one hang the beast, which is only ten moves long. This year I returned partially uncertain of whether or not I could even summit this small peak, my confidence dashed by last years failure. Right off the bench I discovered more intelligent beta, resequencing my old crux, and matched my previous links. Sadly the war continued for another 6 days. I was confused by the conditions, normally cold weather is my jam, but my cursed sweaty fingers never seemed to stop sweating while I sat at basecamp, about two meters from the start of the rig, amidst all types of cold blustery weather, but it was always smarmy and humid somehow. One day, my window presented itself; super hot and a northerly wind, directly from the dry deserts of Africa, I felt something, potentially like an opportunity. I cruised out to Roadside, booted up, warmed on the moves, made a try, fell at the crux, felt great, rested a moment, pulled on, and from that moment on, it was this surreal mind bending experiance. It felt too chill, almost like all the dreams Ive had of ever sending, yet it was real and terrifying, it was my chance to fall off after the crux...but that never happened. I ended up on top, a suprised and happy man, liberated, unleashed, humbled, proud, potentially wiser, and feeling ridicoulous. The moral is, even if you don't believe in yourself, even if you describe a boulder as being built against you, the opposite of your style, outside of your entire box, "impossible" for some reason, if you will. Like you should have done it by now if you were gonna ever do it. You are wrong. You can suceed. You can do anything. Its like the kitten poster from the Lego Movie...which I forget exact wording to. Buzzin.”
Practice of the Wild – Beta Video!
Two sections of footage linked together for 'Practice of the Wild' in Magic Wood. I'll be back!
Practice of the Wild (Dave MacLeod)
"Wheel of Life" 8C for Alex Barrows
by Natalie Berry - UKC 06/Jun/2016
Foto: © Ella Russell
Alex Barrows has climbed his first 8C, ticking "The Wheel of Life" at Hollow Mountain Area bouldering in the Grampians, Australia. The problem is world-famous for its length of ~70 moves and was first climbed by Dai Koyamada in 2004 and originally graded 8C+.
The Wheel links Extreme Cool (7B+) into Sleepy Hollow (8A) into Cave Man (7C) into Dead Can't Dance (8A).
Describing the problem, Alex told UKC:
"It's ~70 moves all told, so a long way removed from normal bouldering, but not quite route climbing either. It's long enough to make Pilgrimage at Parisella's look almost like a boulder problem though!"
Last April, Alex climbed his first 9a - Era Vella - at Margalef in Spain. As a climber with preferences for long, endurance-heavy routes with knee-bars, how did he think Era Vella compared to Wheel of Life?
"In terms of grade I think the concensus nowadays is 9a as a route grade, or 8B+ as a boulder grade; a bit harder if you don't use kneepads, but I sure as hell did! I thought it was probably lower end 9a, not that I'm particularly qualified to give an opinion compared to some of the previous ascentionists. The climbing is probably harder than that on Era Vella, but then it's a million times easier to work so it should be physically harder to earn a similar grade for the overall challenge. Anyway, it's not really about the grade with this thing, it's about it being The Wheel of Life and about it being awesome fun!"
Writing in his blog, Alex summed up his achievement as follows:
"The deep down contentment of doing a problem which I'd heard of for a decade but never dreamed I could ever climb until the last few years, and never expected to climb until the last few days, seems likely to stay around a little while... at least until I find the next project anyway!"
Dave MacLeod - Practice of the Wild 8C
FRI NIGHT VID + INTERVIEW: Dave MacLeod - Practice of the Wild 8C
by Natalie Berry - UKC 27/May/2016
We recently reported on Dave MacLeod's ascent of his first 8C boulder - Practice of the Wild in Magic Wood, Switzerland. A new film in which Dave talks about the process of training for and working the problem has been released by Dark Sky Media and Mountain Equipment. Dave claims he is climbing harder at the age of 37 than he was 10 or 20 years ago - but what has allowed for this improvement? As is typical of Dave, steely dedication and a meticulous approach to training proved essential.
Watch the film and read our interview to find out more...
Had you tried many other 8Cs previously?
No I don’t think I’d tried any. Most of my bouldering is on unclimbed stuff in Scotland. I’ve only had a couple of trips to Chironico around ten years ago and then a few trips to Magic Wood in the last three years.
What made you choose to try Pratice of the Wild as your first 8C, and when did you first try it?
I tried it in 2012 on my first trip in Magic Wood. I couldn’t do any of the hard moves but I just thought it looked like a really inspiring line.
Would you say it was of a particular style that suited or did not suit you?
Well you have some opportunities to use your feet on it, so in that sense it would suit me because I’m pretty weak and need to use my feet. I also did some okay links on In Search of Time Lost (8C) while I was there and that is definitely my anti-style: pure power and fewer chances to make the moves easier with footwork. I’d love to go back and try it someday. If I could do that, I’d definitely have made some real progress in my strength.
For more informations and pictures: ukclimbing.com
First female to climb V15
REEL ROCK Film Tour
Big news! 14 year old Ashima Shiraishi has just become the first female and the youngest person ever to climb V15, with the second ascent of Dai Koyamada's spectacular 25 move roof problem, Horizon, in Hiei, Japan.
After working the problem in December, Ashima returned during her spring break from school, and sent it today on her third day on. Our crew was there to capture her historic achievement for this fall's #REELROCK11 Film Tour.
Photo: by Brett Lowell.
Dai Koyamadaon Horizon, Mt Hiei, Kyushu, Japan © Ikuko Serata
"The Wheel of Life"
Jorg Verhoeven on „Wheel of Life“
Die Marmot PRO Athleten Jorg Verhoeven und Katharina Saurwein legen auf ihrer Australien Reise einen Stopp in den Grampian Mountains, einem der besten Boulder- und Sportklettergebiete der Welt, ein. Als Teil der Grampians „BIG 4“ klettert Jorg den Boulder-Klassiker „Wheel of Life“ (V15) und kann einen Haken mehr in seiner Kletter-„Lifelist“ setzen.
Daniel Woods on „Wheel of Life“
Toru Nakajima in Colorado
I send the movie Toru Nakajima in Colorado 2015.
He made great achievement in this trip.
The highlight is Paint it Black V15 which is one of the hardest problem in the world.
And there are not only Paint it Black but also some hard problems in Colorado.
Jour de chasse
Kevin Lopata dans Jour de Chasse 8c à Recloses, Fontainebleau
The First 9a Sport Route in Bleau
On today's show we check in with French Boulderer Alban Levier, who has recently established himself as the nations number 1 boulderer on the competition scene, and if this recent route is anything to go by, he's not that far off that mark on rock as well. Alban has established what he claims to be the first 9a sport route in the bouldering mecca of Fontainebleau. It is a first ascent combining boulder problems in the Orsay Roof, and is made up of more than 30 moves...BRUTAL!
The First 9a Sport Route Established In Fontainbleau | Climbing Daily, Ep. 646
Daniel Woods in Shiobara