“REM” 2nd Ascent by Paul Robinson

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REM, V14/8B+ Cresciano, Switzerland (Originally graded V16/8C+)


“Road to Tokyo” by Keenan Takahashi

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Keenan's first trip to Japan wasn't supposed to be a climbing trip...

Climbs in order: Butterfly Effect (V13/8B), Asagimadara (V15/8C), Fūjin (V14/8B+)

Vadim and Irina in Switz

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Vadim Timonov and Irina Kuzmenko climbing some hard classics and projecting one of the hardest boulders in the world, Off the Wagon sit. Located in Ticino and Murgtal.

Filmed and edited by Vadim and Irina.

List of boulders: Off the Wagon 8B+, Dreamtime stand 8A+ by Irina (FFA), Ninja Skills 8B+, Boogalagga 8B, Dreamtime 8B+/C, Story of two Worlds 8B+/C, Heritage 8B, Entlinge 8B, Arzak 8B+

“PRIMITIVO” by Martin Stranik

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Martin Stranik repeats "Primitivo" 8C.
Mellow writes about it: Primitivo is one of the best new problems in the world situated in Val Bavona, in Ticino, CH. FA circa April 2019.

First Ascent by Giuliano Cameroni

"Lucid Dreaming" by Jimmy Webb

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Source: MELLOW

Jimmy goes to work on his anti-style in Bishop, CA. Film and edit: Kevin Takashi Smith

About history:

Source: Bishop Bouldering Blog

Tuesday, March 30, 2010

Paul Robinson suggests v16 for Rastaman Vibration Sit, naming it Lucid Dreaming

Paul Robinson has climbed the Buttermilks long-standing project the Rastaman Vibration Sit Start this morning. While working this problem just left of Evilution, on the Grandpa Peabody Boulder, Paul described it as much harder than anything he had done before. This extreme problem with a crux move to gain and dyno from a small left-hand pinch at standing height, was disregarded as near-impossible by many top climbers--with only a handful ever sticking the dyno. The line, in full is thought to be at least v15 and Paul has suggested v16. Not only is the start extremely physical, but the topout up the slab left of Evilution adds a good deal of highballing spice to top it off! Certainly one of the most amazing ascents at the Buttermilks ever, and one of the world's hardest problems. He has named the line Lucid Dreaming.

Daniel Woods Makes 2nd Ascent of "Lucid Dreaming"

Alex Megos Climbs "Lucid Dreaming" (8C/V15) In Bishop

Toru Nakajima repeats Lucid Dreaming, V15 | 8C

Source: onbouldering.com

Japanese crusher Toru Nakajima has done the fourth ascent of Paul Robinson’s Lucid Dreaming, a hard V15 located in Bishop, California.

Fontainebleau Winter 2020

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10 min of sending time in Fontainebleau! This week for both Nathan and myself everything came together and we sent a lot of nice lines in the forest, including (in order of appearance):
Zeus - 7c+
Controle technique - 7c+
pH 12 - 8a
Berezina - 7c
Hypothese - 7c+
L'apparemment bas - 8b
Drakkar - 7c+
The island - 8b+
Imothep - 8a
The big island - 8c
Modulor - 7c+
Narcotic direct - 8a
Pierre ponce - 7c
Jour de chasse - 8b
- Solitary Daze by Maceo plex, Gabriel Ananda
- Upgrade by Klopfgeister, Day Din
- Praise the lord by A$AP rocky, Skepta
- I love by Joyner Lucas

“From Dirt Grows Flowers”

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Uncut of “From Dirt Grows The Flowers” in Schattental (Chironico)

„The Wheel of Life“ (FA) by Dai Koyamada opened 2004

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The Wheel of Life is a famous boulder problem in the sport of rock climbing. Located in Hollow Mountain Cave in the Grampians of Australia and initially graded 8C+ (V16), it is now commonly considered to be 8C (V15).

The problem, which consists of over 60 moves, was first completed by Dai Koyamada in 2004, and it links up three shorter problems that were established by climbers such as Klem Loskot and Fred Nicole (Extreme Cool, V8; Sleepy Hollow V12; Cave Rave, V13)

‚Real Absurdistan‘ by T.Lamprecht

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Road to Tokyo #41 „Pucmeloun“

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The next episode is bit of a climbing "porn". Don't worry, nothing wrong for the kids.. except for some swearing. There is nothing else but some real good old-school climbing without too many unnecessary cuts and too much talking. The first ascent of Pučmeloun 8C (hard) in Sloup, Moravian Karst. Enjoy!