"Lucid Dreaming" by Jimmy Webb

Source: MELLOW

Jimmy goes to work on his anti-style in Bishop, CA. Film and edit: Kevin Takashi Smith

About history:

Source: Bishop Bouldering Blog

Tuesday, March 30, 2010

Paul Robinson suggests v16 for Rastaman Vibration Sit, naming it Lucid Dreaming

Paul Robinson has climbed the Buttermilks long-standing project the Rastaman Vibration Sit Start this morning. While working this problem just left of Evilution, on the Grandpa Peabody Boulder, Paul described it as much harder than anything he had done before. This extreme problem with a crux move to gain and dyno from a small left-hand pinch at standing height, was disregarded as near-impossible by many top climbers--with only a handful ever sticking the dyno. The line, in full is thought to be at least v15 and Paul has suggested v16. Not only is the start extremely physical, but the topout up the slab left of Evilution adds a good deal of highballing spice to top it off! Certainly one of the most amazing ascents at the Buttermilks ever, and one of the world's hardest problems. He has named the line Lucid Dreaming.

Daniel Woods Makes 2nd Ascent of "Lucid Dreaming"

Alex Megos Climbs "Lucid Dreaming" (8C/V15) In Bishop

Toru Nakajima repeats Lucid Dreaming, V15 | 8C

Source: onbouldering.com

Japanese crusher Toru Nakajima has done the fourth ascent of Paul Robinson’s Lucid Dreaming, a hard V15 located in Bishop, California.

Fontainebleau Winter 2020

10 min of sending time in Fontainebleau! This week for both Nathan and myself everything came together and we sent a lot of nice lines in the forest, including (in order of appearance):
 
Zeus - 7c+
Controle technique - 7c+
pH 12 - 8a
Berezina - 7c
Hypothese - 7c+
L'apparemment bas - 8b
Drakkar - 7c+
The island - 8b+
Imothep - 8a
The big island - 8c
Modulor - 7c+
Narcotic direct - 8a
Pierre ponce - 7c
Jour de chasse - 8b
 
Music:
- Solitary Daze by Maceo plex, Gabriel Ananda
- Upgrade by Klopfgeister, Day Din
- Praise the lord by A$AP rocky, Skepta
- I love by Joyner Lucas

“From Dirt Grows Flowers”

Uncut of “From Dirt Grows The Flowers” in Schattental (Chironico)

„The Wheel of Life“ (FA) by Dai Koyamada opened 2004

The Wheel of Life is a famous boulder problem in the sport of rock climbing. Located in Hollow Mountain Cave in the Grampians of Australia and initially graded 8C+ (V16), it is now commonly considered to be 8C (V15).

The problem, which consists of over 60 moves, was first completed by Dai Koyamada in 2004, and it links up three shorter problems that were established by climbers such as Klem Loskot and Fred Nicole (Extreme Cool, V8; Sleepy Hollow V12; Cave Rave, V13)










‚Real Absurdistan‘ by T.Lamprecht


  


















Road to Tokyo #41 „Pucmeloun“


  




The next episode is bit of a climbing "porn". Don't worry, nothing wrong for the kids.. except for some swearing. There is nothing else but some real good old-school climbing without too many unnecessary cuts and too much talking. The first ascent of Pučmeloun 8C (hard) in Sloup, Moravian Karst. Enjoy!




















Productive Day in Moravian, by Adam Ondra


  




Productive day in Moravian Karst

Nunavut 8C FA
Pučmeloun 8C FA
Intensitos 8B FA

One of the best days bouldering for sure. Both 8C's are projects that I have had in my mind for a some time, I had tried them quite a bit in the past, I knew they were possible, I just needed to wait for the perfect day. And the day was yesterday. High psyche after a stint of indoor climbing, and perfect late autumn conditions. Both went down first try this time after rechecking the moves.
Pic by @konecnik







Adam-Ondra-Productive-Day-in-Moravian










„Hydrangea“ by Akira Waku


  




I made the wrong video age. 
I am 48 years old!




















„Bokassas Fridge Assassin Monkey and Man“


  




Ten years ago Toni Lamprecht made the iconic first ascent of 'Bokassa's Fridge - Assassin Monkey and Man' in Kochel after working it for years and therefore proposing the grade fb 8C+ / V16. It took until spring 2019 until the first repeat by Chris Rauch, who then said it's only fb 8C / V15. Meanwhile also Flo Schmalzl made his way to the top, making my ascent the 4th. I started to dream about climbing this line last autumn, when Chris found a nice beta for shorties. But due to the good weather that season I preferably went to other areas and not to Kochel. More or less the same in spring until Chris and Flo repeated the problem. After their ascents I decided to try it again, too. But it was already late in season why it didn't make much sense continue trying. Therefore I postponed projecting it until this autumn. And that was a good decision as I still felt in good shape from 'The Neverending Story' and even better than in spring. It took me five more sessions to make it to the top on November the 11th. But see for yourself...




















‚Ghost Rider‘


  




Moravian Karst is an area where I started climbing and it still remains very special for me. It is definitely a climbing area where I spent the most of the time, ever! Great thing is that it still offers serious challenge for me, especially in bouldering. The next episode of RtT shows me making the second ascent of Ghost Rider 8C after Martin Stráník opened it this summer.