Fontainebleau Winter 2020

10 min of sending time in Fontainebleau! This week for both Nathan and myself everything came together and we sent a lot of nice lines in the forest, including (in order of appearance):
Zeus - 7c+
Controle technique - 7c+
pH 12 - 8a
Berezina - 7c
Hypothese - 7c+
L'apparemment bas - 8b
Drakkar - 7c+
The island - 8b+
Imothep - 8a
The big island - 8c
Modulor - 7c+
Narcotic direct - 8a
Pierre ponce - 7c
Jour de chasse - 8b
- Solitary Daze by Maceo plex, Gabriel Ananda
- Upgrade by Klopfgeister, Day Din
- Praise the lord by A$AP rocky, Skepta
- I love by Joyner Lucas

“From Dirt Grows Flowers”

Uncut of “From Dirt Grows The Flowers” in Schattental (Chironico)

„The Wheel of Life“ (FA) by Dai Koyamada opened 2004

The Wheel of Life is a famous boulder problem in the sport of rock climbing. Located in Hollow Mountain Cave in the Grampians of Australia and initially graded 8C+ (V16), it is now commonly considered to be 8C (V15).

The problem, which consists of over 60 moves, was first completed by Dai Koyamada in 2004, and it links up three shorter problems that were established by climbers such as Klem Loskot and Fred Nicole (Extreme Cool, V8; Sleepy Hollow V12; Cave Rave, V13)

‚Real Absurdistan‘ by T.Lamprecht

Road to Tokyo #41 „Pucmeloun“

The next episode is bit of a climbing "porn". Don't worry, nothing wrong for the kids.. except for some swearing. There is nothing else but some real good old-school climbing without too many unnecessary cuts and too much talking. The first ascent of Pučmeloun 8C (hard) in Sloup, Moravian Karst. Enjoy!

Productive Day in Moravian, by Adam Ondra

Productive day in Moravian Karst

Nunavut 8C FA
Pučmeloun 8C FA
Intensitos 8B FA

One of the best days bouldering for sure. Both 8C's are projects that I have had in my mind for a some time, I had tried them quite a bit in the past, I knew they were possible, I just needed to wait for the perfect day. And the day was yesterday. High psyche after a stint of indoor climbing, and perfect late autumn conditions. Both went down first try this time after rechecking the moves.
Pic by @konecnik


„Hydrangea“ by Akira Waku

I made the wrong video age. 
I am 48 years old!

„Bokassas Fridge Assassin Monkey and Man“

Ten years ago Toni Lamprecht made the iconic first ascent of 'Bokassa's Fridge - Assassin Monkey and Man' in Kochel after working it for years and therefore proposing the grade fb 8C+ / V16. It took until spring 2019 until the first repeat by Chris Rauch, who then said it's only fb 8C / V15. Meanwhile also Flo Schmalzl made his way to the top, making my ascent the 4th. I started to dream about climbing this line last autumn, when Chris found a nice beta for shorties. But due to the good weather that season I preferably went to other areas and not to Kochel. More or less the same in spring until Chris and Flo repeated the problem. After their ascents I decided to try it again, too. But it was already late in season why it didn't make much sense continue trying. Therefore I postponed projecting it until this autumn. And that was a good decision as I still felt in good shape from 'The Neverending Story' and even better than in spring. It took me five more sessions to make it to the top on November the 11th. But see for yourself...

‚Ghost Rider‘

Moravian Karst is an area where I started climbing and it still remains very special for me. It is definitely a climbing area where I spent the most of the time, ever! Great thing is that it still offers serious challenge for me, especially in bouldering. The next episode of RtT shows me making the second ascent of Ghost Rider 8C after Martin Stráník opened it this summer.

Primitivo 8C/V15 First Ascent

Primitivo is one of the best new problems in the world situated in Val Bavona, in Ticino, CH. FA circa April 2019.


Isabelle Faus
Daniel Woods
Giuliano Cameroni
Jimmy Webb

Filmed by the crew//edit by Giuliano