First 9a Sport Route in Bleau
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On today's show we check in with French Boulderer Alban Levier, who has recently established himself as the nations number 1 boulderer on the competition scene, and if this recent route is anything to go by, he's not that far off that mark on rock as well. Alban has established what he claims to be the first 9a sport route in the bouldering mecca of Fontainebleau. It is a first ascent combining boulder problems in the Orsay Roof, and is made up of more than 30 moves...BRUTAL!
The First 9a Sport Route Established In Fontainbleau | Climbing Daily, Ep. 646
Daniel Woods in Shiobara
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day1. "HYDRA V13" & "CARTHARSIS V14" day2. "HYDRANGIA V15"
Serenata 8C for Dawid Skoczylas
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by Natalie Berry - UKC 25/Jan/2016
pics: © Monika Janicka-Skoczylas
Polish climber and UK resident Dawid Skoczylas hasrepeated Mike Adams' 8C SerenataonImpossible Roof, Roche Abbey, South Yorkshire. Dawid put substantial time andeffort into the problem and joins a fairly small list of 'honorary' Brits to climb 8C.
Serenataclimbs the low start intoSerenityand ends in Ned Feehally'sSerenadeextension, therefore creating a link of an~8B+ into ~7C+, to produce one of the UKC's hardest problems, first climbed in 2015.
Fitting in attempts between a full-time job and looking after his four children, Dawid's ascent is highly impressive. He told UKC:
"I am very pleased and surprised I did it.Relieved that a couple of years of effort (including time spent on Serenity and Serendipity) materialised in the ascent. Also relieved that I didn't get injured in the process! Brilliant line which you can dropon almost every move."
Colorado Short 2016
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Here's a quick flic from my trip to CO. Includes the first ascent of Turpentine V12/13, a flash of the classic Barrel Rider V13, and the 4th ascent on The Game, V15. Sorry for the whack iPhone footage!!
Colorado Short 2016 from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.
8c boulders barefoot
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The episode that climbing shoe companies won’t sponsor! This week we meet Charles Albert. He has been climbing in Fontainebleau as long as he can remember. Now he is 18, and he’s probably the only guy who climbs 8th grade problems, barefoot.
"The Big Island"
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Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen in "The Big Island"
The Big Island 8c from Michiel on Vimeo.
Jan Hojer in "The Big Island"
The Big Island from Jan Hojer on Vimeo.
Vincent Pochon in "The Big Island"
The Big Island 8C from Grimpeabloc on Vimeo.