I made the 2nd ascent of "soudain seul" (Big Island sit) yesteday, after the king @simonlorenzi???? Now, time to rest before new projects like "Total Éclipse" or "gourmandise". More infos very soon and video soon !
Besides training for my long-term competition fitness, I took advantage of good conditions in spring in Moravian Karst to have a few projects. Besides Brutal Rider 8C+, there was one more 8C+ project which is not a project anymore. I know it is just a linkup, not necessarily the best line, but I felt I had to do it. The idea of linking those 28 moves, consistently intense, felt almost impossible, but there was one trick that made it possible. A kneebar, that looked impossible to release the hands at first, but everything is trainable. Check it out in the next episode.
Over the last 10 years, I have been neglecting hard outdoor bouldering, mostly either focusing on competitions or when focusing on rock climbing, sport climbing (with rope) always had priority. Bouldering was more of a tool for training. But around my home, there are hard bouldering projects. They might not be the best lines ever, they usually lack topouts, but they are hard, they are there and they simply need to be sent, especially as the moves are usually intricate and interesting! This spring I have had more time to focus on them. Watch the first ascent of Brutal Rider 8C+ (V16) in the next episode! The boulderproblem is long, it has 25 hard moves and could also be graded as hard 9b sport route. Last time, when I did an 8C+, was 10 years ago. It is a lower start into Ghost Rider, an 8C first ascended by Martin Stráník last year. And it links "Brutus", an 8A+ (Brutus exits left into relatively easy terrain) into the start of Ghost Rider.