Charles Albert claims an 8C+ first ascent in Font
Charles Albert propose un nouveau 8C+ bellifontain – Charles Albert claims an 8C+ first ascent in Font
Charles Albert had again crushed barfoot! He just did the start extension to « La revolutionnaire », a boulder he first ascended in December 2016, given 8C and located in Gros Sablons, 3 Pignons forest, Font, France. »It adds 3 difficult moves to the obvious start and it takes me 2 sessions for climbing it with this new start addition. It’s classical roof climbing, the only particular thing is a kneebar. It’s a 10 moves problem before finishing your effort in a blue circuit boulder. »
It’s a new 8C+ proposition in Font. Other extreme first ascents freed by Charles before were « Belial » in Cuvier and « Délire onirique assis » in Saint-Germain, all 8C and unrepeated. The first 8C+ grade proposition of the forest was « Le pied à coulisse » by Guillaume Glairon-Mondet in Rocher Gréau, but since repeated and downgraded to 8C by Charles and James Webb.. The Finn Nalle Hukkataival currently in the place will maybe try this new hard testpiece…
Photo : coll. Charles Albert
Nayuta, ~8C+, first ascent by Dai Koyamada
Björn Pohl - UKC 06/Apr/2017
Nayuta,~8C+, Gero, Japan
© Ikuko Serata
Dai Koyamada has made the first ascent of his super project at Gero in Japan. The name of the problem is "Nayuta" and the suggested grade ~8C+. The way I understand it, Nayuta follows the line of Nehanna(Nirvana), ~8B+/C, (FA 3 June 2016) and then links straight into "Puresemu", ~8B+ (FA 12 June 2016).
Dai discovered the project two years ago and says that it has been his main goal ever since, even though he, at the time, couldn't even imagine himself linking the two very difficult problems. He realised he needed to improve his endurance while keeping his strength, so he trained hard at the gym, went to the Frankenjura to climbe routes and continued working his other projects in Japan. 4 April, after several days of concentrated effort, Dai could make the first ascent of his hardest problem to date. And while shouting, the right hand grasped the last big hold firmly. I stood up on the rock and sat down and looked up at the sky, I saw a beautiful moon.
That time came at last.
Dai commented on Instagram:
"As I’ve already mentioned briefly, I’m happy to announce that I made the first ascent of my super project in Gero, Japan on April 4th.
And I decided the name of my super project. It’s ‘Nayuta’. Nayuta literally means an extremely great number or beyond the existing things. Regarding the grade, I suggest V16 because it’s the hardest problem I’ve ever sent in my life but I think some repeats are required to be fixed. It’s a 27-move problem.
I’m now very relieved and happy to send this project before my physical limits. This is just one of the major milestones and I won’t stop! I’ll keep climbing hard!"
Video - footage of trying hard
La teoría del todo V16/8C+
Beto Rocasolano in La teoría del todo V16/8C+, Albarracín
Crisis 8c/+ Crevillente
Jonatan Flor in "Crisis", bouldern in Crevillente.
Beto Rocasolano in Crisis 8C/+
Bügeleisen Sit - Jakob Schubert
Having tested his limits in sport climbing with routes up to 9b, Jakob Schubert is keen to see what he can do in bouldering. In early 2015 he decides to lay his hands on Nalle Hukkataival’s test piece Bügeleisen Sit fb 8C. Considered one of the hardest boulder problems in the world, Jakob Schubert becomes the first to repeat the infamous 15 moves.
Climber: Jakob Schubert
Appearances: Alfons Dornauer, Elias Holzknecht
See our production about the first ascent by Nalle Hukkataival here:
"The Creature from the black lagoon"
by Björn Pohl - UKC 29/Sep/2016
Daniel Woods has fiinally climbed through his mental barrier and made the first ascent of The Creature from the black lagoon, ~8C+, at the Upper Chaos Canyon at Chaos Canyon, Colorado.
The Monster from the black lagoon is the low start to Leviathan style, ~8A, and Daniel says "...it felt like v15 to get into the stand of leviathan, no rest, then soft 11 to the top."
He also says that he could do all the moves and link a few of them already on day one, but that it, as so often is the case, turned into a mental battle.
I finally got to the point where I was sure it was in the bag. More days passed and I continued to fail. I would link multiple times from just 3 moves in to the top, but could never add in the first 3 relatively easy moves. This tripped me out considering that the Boulder had essentially been climbed haha. I became worried that I had already mind fucked myself and would have to wait for a new season to start fresh and see the bloc through with another set of eyes. Motivation to climb something is funny in that way. I go through this same struggle with everything challenging that I try. I beat myself up because I know it's there and overcoming mental disbelief is the most satisfying feeling for me in climbing. I had false confidence in the beginning with this thing, and that is what led me into a war of attrition. Luckily, can just look back at all those failed attempts over the course of 15 days and smile.
About the difficulty, he says: I believe this line is harder than most 15s I've done so why not call it 16... and that the same level in bouldering has maintained from Fred Nicole, Bernd Zangerl, and Klem loskot a decade ago until now. We can either acknowledge what is a level up from the standard of 15 (based off of consensus over the years) or continue climbing v15 for another decade.
This was Daniel Woods' third ~8C+ after Hypnotized minds, which he put up back in 2010, and The Process at the Buttermilks., which put up in January last year. The former didn't see a repeat until this year, when Rustam Gelmanov made a relatively quick repeat, the latter lost parts of a crucial hold shortly after the first ascent. Whether it's still roughly of the same difficulty remains to be seen.
Let's hope it doesn't take too long for Daniel's new creation to get repeated.
Working the "Process" 8c+
A couple of goes on the "Process" a week before this project was finished.
First repeat of "Hypnotized Minds" V16 (8C+)
Rustam Gelmanov has made the first repeat of Daniel Woods Hypnotized Minds, V16 (8C+) in Rocky Mountain National Park.
Daniel had recently lifted the grade from V15 after comparing it to the many of the grade he has done. It'll be interesting to see if more people will be trying it now its had a repeat!
"Bügeleisen" Sit Start
Nalle Hukkataival On "The Bügeleisen" Sit Start 8C (+)
Klem Loskot's masterpiece, The Bügeleisen Sit Start has long been one of the most coveted boulder problems in the world. Finnish climber Nalle Hukkataival has made several attempts on the line and says, ‘it turned out to be the biggest battle I've ever had with a climb, both mentally and physically.’ In April 2014, Nalle traveled to Maltatal, Austria for another attempt. In the past, he has been frustrated by the weather and this attempt was to be no exception. Watch him battle rain, humidity, and some incredibly difficult moves for a shot at one of the most difficult and beautiful sends in the world.
"Le Pied à Coulisse", first ~8C+ in Font
by Björn Pohl - UKC 20/Jan/2016
Guillaume Glairon Mondet has med the first ascent of "Le Pied à Coulisse", the direct exit to Chaos, at Rocher Gréau, Fontainebleau. Guillaume suggests 8C+ which would make it the hardest in Fontainebleau and a contender for the hardest anywhere.
Perfect conditions in Fontainebleau has made possible for many high end ascent by the locals and visitors lucky enough to rock up at the right time. Gui gui Mondet made the best of these conditions and managed to make the first ascent of a problem he has been working on and off for three years; the direct exit to Chaos.
It's the same sit start as Chaos, but you quickly reach out through to the roof, to join a mantle on the left of the boulder. Some really powerfull moves, on good crimps, including some really strenuous body tension positions. Then, the mantle is for me the hardest and low percentage part of the boulder, where to succeed you must find the perfect body position...
About the grade, he says that for him this is usually the hardest part, but that Here in Font, I have more experience and I have done most of the hardest problems of the forest. One thing is clear for me though: this problem seems to be of a new level of difficulty in the forest, a lot harder than the other things I have already done.
I will never say that I have climbed the hardest boulder in the world, but I think many things make it complicated. I hope that the bouldering "world" stars will come soon to try it, and I know that many of them arrive in the forest soon .. !!