First Ascents by G. Cameroni
8c+/V16 First Ascents
In February 2019, Giuliano made the first ascent of two of the hardest boulders in Ticino, CH: “Poison The Well” in Brione and “REM” in Cresciano.
'Off the Wagon' sit
Shawn Raboutou climbs the first ascent "Off the Wagon" sit (V16/8C+) in Val Bavona, Switzerland. Video filmed and edited by Shawn Raboutou. November 27, 2018
Box Therapy - first ascent
Daniel Woods doing the first ascent of Box Therapy "up in RMNP" 8C+ !!!
Daniel Woods FA/Box-Therapy 8C+
Maybe I dont have to wait till june afterall. decided to go back up and clean the ice and snow off the bloc for one last shot. Was shocked that so much snow had melted in just a two day period. I did the line from a move in to the lip of the overhang (all the hard moves), but the headwall remained damp. monday will give it hell.
Charles Albert claims an 8C+ first ascent in Font
Charles Albert propose un nouveau 8C+ bellifontain – Charles Albert claims an 8C+ first ascent in Font
Charles Albert had again crushed barfoot! He just did the start extension to « La revolutionnaire », a boulder he first ascended in December 2016, given 8C and located in Gros Sablons, 3 Pignons forest, Font, France. »It adds 3 difficult moves to the obvious start and it takes me 2 sessions for climbing it with this new start addition. It’s classical roof climbing, the only particular thing is a kneebar. It’s a 10 moves problem before finishing your effort in a blue circuit boulder. »
It’s a new 8C+ proposition in Font. Other extreme first ascents freed by Charles before were « Belial » in Cuvier and « Délire onirique assis » in Saint-Germain, all 8C and unrepeated. The first 8C+ grade proposition of the forest was « Le pied à coulisse » by Guillaume Glairon-Mondet in Rocher Gréau, but since repeated and downgraded to 8C by Charles and James Webb.. The Finn Nalle Hukkataival currently in the place will maybe try this new hard testpiece…
Photo : coll. Charles Albert
Nayuta, ~8C+, first ascent by Dai Koyamada
Björn Pohl - UKC 06/Apr/2017
Nayuta,~8C+, Gero, Japan
© Ikuko Serata
Dai Koyamada has made the first ascent of his super project at Gero in Japan. The name of the problem is "Nayuta" and the suggested grade ~8C+. The way I understand it, Nayuta follows the line of Nehanna(Nirvana), ~8B+/C, (FA 3 June 2016) and then links straight into "Puresemu", ~8B+ (FA 12 June 2016).
Dai discovered the project two years ago and says that it has been his main goal ever since, even though he, at the time, couldn't even imagine himself linking the two very difficult problems. He realised he needed to improve his endurance while keeping his strength, so he trained hard at the gym, went to the Frankenjura to climbe routes and continued working his other projects in Japan. 4 April, after several days of concentrated effort, Dai could make the first ascent of his hardest problem to date. And while shouting, the right hand grasped the last big hold firmly. I stood up on the rock and sat down and looked up at the sky, I saw a beautiful moon.
That time came at last.
Dai commented on Instagram:
"As I’ve already mentioned briefly, I’m happy to announce that I made the first ascent of my super project in Gero, Japan on April 4th.
And I decided the name of my super project. It’s ‘Nayuta’. Nayuta literally means an extremely great number or beyond the existing things. Regarding the grade, I suggest V16 because it’s the hardest problem I’ve ever sent in my life but I think some repeats are required to be fixed. It’s a 27-move problem.
I’m now very relieved and happy to send this project before my physical limits. This is just one of the major milestones and I won’t stop! I’ll keep climbing hard!"
Video - footage of trying hard
La teoría del todo V16/8C+
Beto Rocasolano in La teoría del todo V16/8C+, Albarracín
Crisis 8c/+ Crevillente