A Mellow Ticino: (2/4)

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Jimmy Webb and Daniel Woods rage on some of Bavona's hardest boulder problems.

Climbs include "4-Low" (8C/v15), "Primitivo" (8C/v15), "Roadkill" (8C/v15),
"Off the Wagon Low (8C+/v16), and "Poison the Well" (8C+/v16).
 
Film and edit by Kevin Takashi Smith

Drew Ruana vs "Box therapy"

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Drew getting the 2nd ascent of Daniel Wood's "Box Therapy" V16/8C+
6 miles in and 6 out to get to this beast.

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Ever since I saw the vid of @dawoods89 FAing this line I’ve wanted to do it. Something about hiking 13 miles every day to try this boulder made the experience that much more special.

“Ledoborec” FA by Adam Ondra

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Besides training for my long-term competition fitness, I took advantage of good conditions in spring in Moravian Karst to have a few projects. Besides Brutal Rider 8C+, there was one more 8C+ project which is not a project anymore. I know it is just a linkup, not necessarily the best line, but I felt I had to do it. The idea of linking those 28 moves, consistently intense, felt almost impossible, but there was one trick that made it possible. A kneebar, that looked impossible to release the hands at first, but everything is trainable. Check it out in the next episode.

“Brutal Rider” FA by Adam Ondra

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Over the last 10 years, I have been neglecting hard outdoor bouldering, mostly either focusing on competitions or when focusing on rock climbing, sport climbing (with rope) always had priority. Bouldering was more of a tool for training. But around my home, there are hard bouldering projects. They might not be the best lines ever, they usually lack topouts, but they are hard, they are there and they simply need to be sent, especially as the moves are usually intricate and interesting! This spring I have had more time to focus on them. Watch the first ascent of Brutal Rider 8C+ (V16) in the next episode! The boulderproblem is long, it has 25 hard moves and could also be graded as hard 9b sport route. Last time, when I did an 8C+, was 10 years ago. It is a lower start into Ghost Rider, an 8C first ascended by Martin Stráník last year. And it links "Brutus", an 8A+ (Brutus exits left into relatively easy terrain) into the start of Ghost Rider.

“Off the Wagon” sit by Jimmy Webb

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Jimmy’s 2020 trip to Ticino starts off with the second ascent of one of Switzerland’s hardest boulders.

“Sleepwalker” by Drew Ruana

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Drew making an ascent of one of America's new testpieces in Red Rocks, NV.

„United“ V16 first ascent by Ryuchi Murai

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Source: MELLOW

Ryuchi on the first ascent of Japan‘s hardest, „UNITED“ 8c+/V16.
The boulder is the sit start to „Decided“, an established V14 from Takaki Mikura in Mt. Mizugaki.

‘La force’ au Toit d’Orsay

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C’était en mai dernier, Camille Coudert signait la première répétition de « La force ». Alban Levier avait réussi la First Ascent et avancé la cotation de 9a voie en raison du très grand nombre de mouvements de la ligne. Camille de son côté penche pour un autre type de cotation entre bloc et voie : 8C+ trav. En tout cas, c’est du costaud!

“Sleepwalker”

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“Sleepwalker” by Drew Ruana

Drew making an ascent of one of America's new testpieces in Red Rocks, NV.

“Sleepwalker” by Daniel Woods

Back in Jan. Daniel made the 2nd asc. of "Sleepwalker" established by Jimmy Webb. Climb is located in Red Rocks, NV on the infamous wet dream boulder. The climb is ranked as one of the hardest lines in the world.

“Sleepwalker” First Ascent by Jimmy Webb

Jimmy Webb, Daniel Woods, and Keenan Takahashi battle against one of the hardest undone projects in the United States. On December 15, 2018, after 11 days of effort, Jimmy Webb completed the first ascent of "Sleepwalker", suggesting a grade of 8C+(V16).

'N I N J A - S K I L L S' 8C/8C+ - FA

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How far does your perseverance stretch? Three years of effort, over 150 sessions, -6ºC in 50cm of snow, all-night 12 hour sessions, then 25ºC in July... Ninja Skills Sit Down Start was Martin Keller's ultimate nemesis. In this short film, join Martin on his journey as he discovers the secret to unlocking his first ascent of Ninja Skills 8C/8C+ (V15/V16)

Nestled in between chestnut trees on a south facing slope in Sobrio, Switzerland, the 8B+ (V14) stand start for the famous Ninja Skills was first climbed in 2009 by Nalle Hukkataival.