‘La force’ au Toit d’Orsay
C’était en mai dernier, Camille Coudert signait la première répétition de « La force ». Alban Levier avait réussi la First Ascent et avancé la cotation de 9a voie en raison du très grand nombre de mouvements de la ligne. Camille de son côté penche pour un autre type de cotation entre bloc et voie : 8C+ trav. En tout cas, c’est du costaud!
“Sleepwalker”
“Sleepwalker” by Drew Ruana
Drew making an ascent of one of America's new testpieces in Red Rocks, NV.
“Sleepwalker” by Daniel Woods
Back in Jan. Daniel made the 2nd asc. of "Sleepwalker" established by Jimmy Webb. Climb is located in Red Rocks, NV on the infamous wet dream boulder. The climb is ranked as one of the hardest lines in the world.
“Sleepwalker” First Ascent by Jimmy Webb
Jimmy Webb, Daniel Woods, and Keenan Takahashi battle against one of the hardest undone projects in the United States. On December 15, 2018, after 11 days of effort, Jimmy Webb completed the first ascent of "Sleepwalker", suggesting a grade of 8C+(V16).
'N I N J A - S K I L L S' 8C/8C+ - FA
How far does your perseverance stretch? Three years of effort, over 150 sessions, -6ºC in 50cm of snow, all-night 12 hour sessions, then 25ºC in July... Ninja Skills Sit Down Start was Martin Keller's ultimate nemesis. In this short film, join Martin on his journey as he discovers the secret to unlocking his first ascent of Ninja Skills 8C/8C+ (V15/V16)
Nestled in between chestnut trees on a south facing slope in Sobrio, Switzerland, the 8B+ (V14) stand start for the famous Ninja Skills was first climbed in 2009 by Nalle Hukkataival.
First Ascents by G. Cameroni
8c+/V16 First Ascents
In February 2019, Giuliano made the first ascent of two of the hardest boulders in Ticino, CH: “Poison The Well” in Brione and “REM” in Cresciano.
'Off the Wagon' sit
Shawn Raboutou climbs the first ascent "Off the Wagon" sit (V16/8C+) in Val Bavona, Switzerland. Video filmed and edited by Shawn Raboutou. November 27, 2018
Box Therapy - first ascent
Daniel Woods doing the first ascent of Box Therapy "up in RMNP" 8C+ !!!
Daniel Woods FA/Box-Therapy 8C+
91 miles hiked over 7 days
10,400 ft (3169 m) elevation
multiple 35 F degree (1C) and below days with wind... condis ????
18 moves out a 50 degree roof
micro holds that make your pulleys feel like they are gonna pop after every attempt
snowstorms ❄
feeling close but continue the waiting game ????
convince myself it is over... too much snow and ice
mother nature blesses me with a window ????
psyche is rekindled
anxiety creeps in to get the job done
last day best day
zone state entered
im on cloud 9
More informations: Instagram dawoods89
Video on Instagram
Maybe I dont have to wait till june afterall. decided to go back up and clean the ice and snow off the bloc for one last shot. Was shocked that so much snow had melted in just a two day period. I did the line from a move in to the lip of the overhang (all the hard moves), but the headwall remained damp. monday will give it hell.
Charles Albert claims an 8C+ first ascent in Font
Charles Albert propose un nouveau 8C+ bellifontain – Charles Albert claims an 8C+ first ascent in Font
source: Fanatic-climbing
Charles Albert had again crushed barfoot! He just did the start extension to « La revolutionnaire », a boulder he first ascended in December 2016, given 8C and located in Gros Sablons, 3 Pignons forest, Font, France. »It adds 3 difficult moves to the obvious start and it takes me 2 sessions for climbing it with this new start addition. It’s classical roof climbing, the only particular thing is a kneebar. It’s a 10 moves problem before finishing your effort in a blue circuit boulder. »
It’s a new 8C+ proposition in Font. Other extreme first ascents freed by Charles before were « Belial » in Cuvier and « Délire onirique assis » in Saint-Germain, all 8C and unrepeated. The first 8C+ grade proposition of the forest was « Le pied à coulisse » by Guillaume Glairon-Mondet in Rocher Gréau, but since repeated and downgraded to 8C by Charles and James Webb.. The Finn Nalle Hukkataival currently in the place will maybe try this new hard testpiece…
Photo : coll. Charles Albert
Nayuta, ~8C+, first ascent by Dai Koyamada
Björn Pohl - UKC 06/Apr/2017
Nayuta,~8C+, Gero, Japan
© Ikuko Serata
Dai Koyamada has made the first ascent of his super project at Gero in Japan. The name of the problem is "Nayuta" and the suggested grade ~8C+. The way I understand it, Nayuta follows the line of Nehanna(Nirvana), ~8B+/C, (FA 3 June 2016) and then links straight into "Puresemu", ~8B+ (FA 12 June 2016).
Dai discovered the project two years ago and says that it has been his main goal ever since, even though he, at the time, couldn't even imagine himself linking the two very difficult problems. He realised he needed to improve his endurance while keeping his strength, so he trained hard at the gym, went to the Frankenjura to climbe routes and continued working his other projects in Japan. 4 April, after several days of concentrated effort, Dai could make the first ascent of his hardest problem to date. And while shouting, the right hand grasped the last big hold firmly. I stood up on the rock and sat down and looked up at the sky, I saw a beautiful moon.
That time came at last.
Dai commented on Instagram:
"As I’ve already mentioned briefly, I’m happy to announce that I made the first ascent of my super project in Gero, Japan on April 4th.
And I decided the name of my super project. It’s ‘Nayuta’. Nayuta literally means an extremely great number or beyond the existing things. Regarding the grade, I suggest V16 because it’s the hardest problem I’ve ever sent in my life but I think some repeats are required to be fixed. It’s a 27-move problem.
I’m now very relieved and happy to send this project before my physical limits. This is just one of the major milestones and I won’t stop! I’ll keep climbing hard!"