Return of the Sleepwalker By Will Bosi
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was the third 9A for the former competitive climber who has already completed Burden of Dreams (9A) and Alphane (9A). The 25-year-old stopped competing in 2021 after having had his best year in 2019, twice placing fourth in the World Cup.
New 9A boulder for Charles Albert
According to grimper.com, the boulder is ten metres long and follows a crack through the roof of a cave on Mont Salève.
In 2019, Albert established Voyageur Face à la Mer de Nuage (Traveler Facing the Sea of Clouds), an 8B boulder which accounts for the final third of the roof crack. In late October this year, Albert was able to link the full ten metre line together for the first ascent, climbing the boulder in his preferred style - barefoot and without kneebars.
The report further suggests that Albert in fact regards the boulder as closer to 9A+ when climbed in his preferred style, but decided that because shoes and kneebars would undeniably make the route easier, he would grade the boulder 9A.
'Experienced in grading', grimper reported, 'he considers it unthinkable, even while scraping heel hooks and jamm[ing] knees, that this long ceiling is of comparable difficulty to the 8C+ that he knows'.
Source: https://www.ukclimbing.com/
„Burden of Dreams“ by Will Bosi
The burden has been lifted. The infamous Burden of Dreams boulder in Lappnor, Finland is a bouldering problem that no climber had solved since Nalle Hukkataival's successful ascent back in 2016. Will Bosi describes climbing the world's first 9A boulder as, 'the hardest boulder in the world'.
Will Bosi's bouldering journey to the Burden of Dreams began in a much different setting to Finland – as he explored what was possible on a 3D-printed replica climbing wall in Sheffield, England. It was there that his confidence and belief began to grow.
Travelling to the boulder was the next step. Will spent over three weeks at the Burden of Dreams, studying holds and perfecting moves that would allow him to ascend the boulder that has bettered some of the world's best climbers.
On 12 April 2023, Will Bosi accomplished his dream of climbing the Burden of Dreams – and the rest is now history.
00:00 Intro
01:55 Climbing on a replica
03:25 Arriving at Burden of Dreams
04:10 Will explains his climbing holds
07:20 Burden of Dreams
10:10 Rest day
17:50 Credits
adidas/Terrex
A film by
Diego Borello
„Alphane“ by Will Bosi
Alphane 9A/V17, Forgotten Gem 8C/V15 and Vecchio flash 8B/V13
Sam Pratt film
Projecting "Burden of Dreams"
Projecting "Burden of Dreams" V17 in the WORST weather ever?!
“Megatron” V17 by Shawn Raboutou
A long-standing project in Colorado finally gets done, becoming one of the hardest boulder problems in the world.
Featuring: Shawn Raboutou, Daniel Woods, Drew Ruana, Chad Greedy, & Jimmy Webb
Presented by: The North Face
Film by Matty Hong
The North Face presents: “ALPHANE”
The North Face team returns to Switzerland with the goal to establish cutting edge first ascents. Shawn’s ascent of Alphane is the first proposed 9a in Switzerland and only the fourth worldwide. The film features Matty Hong, Jimmy Webb, Daniel Woods, Felipe Carmago, Giuliano Cameroni, and Shawn Raboutou. Film by Ben Neilson. Supported by The North Face.
0:00 Intro
1:23 Alphane V17 (Part 1)
5:24 Trip to the moon V14
11:25 Mystic River V15
14:10 Squalo Bianco V14
17:58 River Arête Project
23:07 Fight Club V14
31:24 Dreamtime V15
35:15 Alphane V17 (Part 2)
45:00 Credits
„Soudain seul“ by C. Coudert
“Return of the Sleepwalker” (FA) Video
Daniel Woods goes straight into battle mode with one of his hardest projects to date. Jimmy Webb established "Sleepwalker" (the stand start) back in January of 2019. The possibility of a sit-start arose in 2021. This sit-start would add in a 7 move 8B/v13 into "Sleepwalker" (8C+/v16). Grades can be fickle, but ROTSW stands as one of the hardest boulder problems in the world. Bobby Sorich did an awesome job capturing Daniel's process, emotion, and overall journey to climb ROTSW.
Hope you enjoy the film and are inspired to go out and mind fuck yourself a bit. Climbing is an awesome outlet to see how far you can go within, learn about yourself, and pull some freak shit out of you. All to accomplish a feat of strength that will give you 30 seconds of bliss, but a huge confidence boost within that's carried throughout your life. It's all a game out there... have fun playing the game. DW