The Anatomy of Bouldering - (2)

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Part 2: Conditions

Production: Frischluft
Climber: Santiago Lena de Terry

Filmed in Fontainebleau, France

Music:
“Hustle”
Kevin MacLeod

“Techno Drum Loop”
djfroyd
facebook.com/FroydJ

The Anatomy of Bouldering - (1)

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"The brain is the most important muscle for climbing" - Wolfgang Güllich

What is the Anatomy of Bouldering? Join us and find out in our three part Mini-Series "The Anatomy of Bouldering".

#TAOB #bleau #scarpaclimbing #frischluft #frischundluftig
Scarpa Spa | Moon Climbing | Bloc House Graz
frischluftfilm.at

Melissa Le Nevé in "Mecanique elementaire" 8b+

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Melissa-Le-Nevé-in-Mecanique- elementaire

Source: Melissa Le Neve on FB
Picture: Fabi Buhl

Swoop !! today I could send my hardest climb on the paper but mostly my hardest challenge in terms of reachy moves and mental side ! After falling a while on the very last move I finally could stand on the top of "mecanique elementaire" 8b+. Super happy, thanks for the spot @nalle_hukkataival and nice send of "jour de chasse" on this warm day !

Kevin Lopata in "Mécanique Élémentaire"

The hardest circuit in Fontainebleau

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Photo: Kevin Smith
Nalle Hukkataival in "DUEL" in Fontainebleau.

The black ED+ circuit in Cuisinière is the hardest circuit in Fontainebleau and despite being decades old, word has it it's never been climbed in a day. The fact alone that the very last boulder on the circuit is the infamous slab Duel (8A) has kept it an exclusive challenge.

I found the circuit to be a real test of climbing skill - being strong will only get you so far. The boulders range between every style testing technique above all. Crimps, slopers, slabs, aretes, dynos, highballs, mantles - you have it all. Mental strength is needed on the highballs. The point is that in order to make it through the entire circuit you need to climb well and efficiently.

After a couple of days locating and sussing out the boulders and brushing some of the less popular ones from underneath the moss, I gave it a shot. At 5 hours 8 minutes I got to the top of the last boulder with no skin to spare, already bleeding on the last attempt! Feels great to complete something that I remember seeing in the guidebook and laughing at because it seemed so ridiculously hard. To top it off I nearly had the 'perfect game' falling just one time on Duel.

Must have learned a thing or two over the years!
Stay tuned for a video capturing the whole circuit!

Re-climbing some old classics here in Font! I've been getting psyched on the idea of trying to do the unclimbed black circuit in Cuisinierè. Duel (8A) the infamous slab took me years to figure out in typical Font style and now having learned the method it's hard to understand why. Duel is the very last boulder on the circuit so need to get it wired!

Hier ist ein Facebook-Video zu finden.

BLEAU 2016

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BLEAU - Trav.Bas 7c - Bicarburation 8a

That time I tried "Le P’tit Toit"

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I'm usually a fairly calm guy, this day was not one of those days. I shall not be trying this again.

That time I tried Le P'tit Toit from Alex Salt on Vimeo.

6 Talks on Vimeo

  1. velimir patrnogic vor 2 Wochen: ...just fucking die xD
  2. josh dawson vor 2 Wochen: ...I have watched this so much it makes me so happy
  3. Dom Bridgwood vor 1 Woche: ...This is comedy gold!
  4. Paddy Walker vor 1 Woche: ...best font video I've seen in years
  5. kevin butters vor 6 Tage: ...Best film
  6. Rebecca Machin vor 2 Tage: ...Best climbing film I've seen for a long time. The scream around 02:42. We've all been there.

 

And here an interview named "The World's Angriest Boulderer"  by Natalie Berry - UKC

Have you ever found yourself shouting and screaming at a piece of rock? Inventing swear words that you didn't know that you knew? If so, this video will probably make you feel better about failing on your project.

'That time I tried Le P'tit Toit​' has been doing the rounds on the internet for the past few days and despite his newfound fame, Stoke-based Alex Salt found the time to do a mini-interview with us about his Fontainebleau failures (see below)...

More on UKC

Gecko again (8b+)

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barefoot-Charles climbs "Gecko" backward


MarsBleau

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Some great boulders from my recent trip to Font in march 2016,

- Egoiste assis 7A+ flash
- Magic Bus 7B+ flash
- Magic Bus gauche 7C (it's my personal grade)

Jour de chasse

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Kevin Lopata dans Jour de Chasse 8c à Recloses, Fontainebleau

Jour de chasse 8c from kevin LOPATA on Vimeo.

The First 9a Sport Route in Bleau

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On today's show we check in with French Boulderer Alban Levier, who has recently established himself as the nations number 1 boulderer on the competition scene, and if this recent route is anything to go by, he's not that far off that mark on rock as well. Alban has established what he claims to be the first 9a sport route in the bouldering mecca of Fontainebleau. It is a first ascent combining boulder problems in the Orsay Roof, and is made up of more than 30 moves...BRUTAL!

The First 9a Sport Route Established In Fontainbleau | Climbing Daily, Ep. 646