'Wirbeljet'

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"Wirbeljet" is in my opinion one of the best 8B boulders in the Frankenjura. It's location is unique and nice. The holds and the rockquality convince. The moves are fun and it has an obvious start and top, which isn't self-evident in the Frankenjura. The icing on the cake: it's always shady and therefore guarantees good conditions even when it's sunny and warm. Overall a perfect spot for hard bouldering.

Flying Potato

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This boulder should be one of the most unique spots you've seen for climbing. It's in the Frankenjura and there's only this one line to climb up the bloc. It's called 'Flying Potato' [fb 8A+] and was established by Andre Behr.

When you know other boulders that are as unique as this one, then write a comment down below. I'm pretty psyched to see what the world has to offer in this context!

Hips Don't Lie "Sit"

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My ascent of 'Hips Don't Lie Sit' [fb 8B+/V14] took me longer than expected:

In early spring I tried the standstart for the first time and had a promising first session. A week later I tried it again and made a solid ascent. Therefore I thought it wouldn't be a big deal to add four moves which are around fb7C (in my opinion).

It turned out to be different! I don't know how many days I spent there overall. But I know that the last hard move to the undercling incut crimp was way harder from the ground than from the stand. I fell there over and over again. Maybe if you have a better endurance than I do, it doesn't feel too different. But I needed a lucky punch to link all the moves together. 

"Spannungsprüfer Variation"

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A few weeks ago I climbed the straight line through the roof called 'Spannungsprüfer' which was established by Markus Bock already in 1999. A friend then told me that there's another nice boulder that climbes from the left into Spannungsprüfer and is ~ fb 8B. He didn't know it's name and I couldn't find it out until today, but it's a nice climb and it doesn't matter how it's called in the end. Last sunday I went there to try it. First it felt impossible but I could find a nice beta which made it doable. On that day I was to tired from checking the moves, but yesterday I could execute it luckily, although the conditions where less than perfect.

"North Star"

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Volker Schöffl in "North Star" - Foto: Rico Haase

"QUG" by Liesa Hergeth

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"Lucifer" by Thomas Lindinger

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With 'Lucifer' Markus Bock opened just another testpiece in the Frankenjura. Although it's extreme low to the ground it's fun and with a thin pad dabbing isn't a problem any more.

Dharma

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Liesa-Hergeth-in-Dharma

Bullrider

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My first session on this boulder was in 2016. Back than I couldn't even think of climbing this bloc. Especially due to it's unique start the climbing felt uncontrollable and it seemed that I was far away from climbing it. With the years and some more sessions I improved the beta and in the end even the startsequenze became climbable for me.

Thomas Lindinger in Bullrider

Phablet

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