Hips Don't Lie "Sit"

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My ascent of 'Hips Don't Lie Sit' [fb 8B+/V14] took me longer than expected:

In early spring I tried the standstart for the first time and had a promising first session. A week later I tried it again and made a solid ascent. Therefore I thought it wouldn't be a big deal to add four moves which are around fb7C (in my opinion).

It turned out to be different! I don't know how many days I spent there overall. But I know that the last hard move to the undercling incut crimp was way harder from the ground than from the stand. I fell there over and over again. Maybe if you have a better endurance than I do, it doesn't feel too different. But I needed a lucky punch to link all the moves together. 

"Spannungsprüfer Variation"

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A few weeks ago I climbed the straight line through the roof called 'Spannungsprüfer' which was established by Markus Bock already in 1999. A friend then told me that there's another nice boulder that climbes from the left into Spannungsprüfer and is ~ fb 8B. He didn't know it's name and I couldn't find it out until today, but it's a nice climb and it doesn't matter how it's called in the end. Last sunday I went there to try it. First it felt impossible but I could find a nice beta which made it doable. On that day I was to tired from checking the moves, but yesterday I could execute it luckily, although the conditions where less than perfect.

"North Star"

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Volker Schöffl in "North Star" - Foto: Rico Haase

"QUG" by Liesa Hergeth

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"Lucifer" by Thomas Lindinger

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With 'Lucifer' Markus Bock opened just another testpiece in the Frankenjura. Although it's extreme low to the ground it's fun and with a thin pad dabbing isn't a problem any more.

Dharma

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Liesa-Hergeth-in-Dharma

Bullrider

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My first session on this boulder was in 2016. Back than I couldn't even think of climbing this bloc. Especially due to it's unique start the climbing felt uncontrollable and it seemed that I was far away from climbing it. With the years and some more sessions I improved the beta and in the end even the startsequenze became climbable for me.

Thomas Lindinger in Bullrider

Phablet

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El Caminito del Rey

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Maik Urbczat in "El Caminito del Rey"

A Ondra In The Frankenjura

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Adam Ondra’s Secret Bouldering In The Frankenjura