“Royal Flush”

Uncut footage of "Royal Flush", a rather long boulder in the Frankenjura.
Came really close to sending on day one but slipped off the last hard move.
Came back a day later to finish it off.

Thanks a lot Max and Jenya for the support and for filming.

Frankenjura Winter 2020

Some of my latest #frankenjura bouldering ascents including:

Linker Sprung 8A
Back to the Stoneage 8A
Superspreader 8A First Ascent
Tonfa 8A+
Shoe Goo 8B
Das Opfer 8A
Thread 8B
Be Kind 8B+

Music: WhoMadeWho - Keep me in my plane (DJ Koze Hudson River Dub) Moderat - Bad Kingdom (DJ Koze Remix)

"Vatertag" direkt

Frankenjura Bouldering

Small compilation of some boulders in the Frankenjura.

Including "Phaeton" 8B,
"Pink Punter" 8B,
"The Shelter" 8A+,
"Semper Fi" 8B.
I thought "Phaeton" felt very easy for the grade.

“Opposing Force” FA by Alex-Megos

Sorry for cutting the first move of the send. I started climbing too fast. This rather long boulder shares the same start with "Half Life", but finishes in a boulder called "Nightcrawler" (around 8B). With the added moves I thought its around 8B+/C, but hard to give it a boulder grade as it has got more than 20 moves. Thank you for the support Bas & Alise. And thanks for holding the second iPhone :-)

"Bruchtal" and "Wer in Jeans..."

"Half Life" by Alex Megos

Half Life was first climbed by Felix Knaub a while back and it didn't get a repeat for a long time. After getting more into bouldering this spring I could do the second ascent of it a few months ago. Felix proposed 8C back then, and I think the way he climbed it was for sure hard 8C. After finding slightly different beta and by using a kneepad it for sure made it a bit easier. Might still be 8C though. Hard to say, as its a rather long boulder problem with about 25 moves.

“Upgrade U” FA by Alex Megos

Video of the first ascent of the boulder "Upgrade U" in the Frankenjura.
 
This project was found around 20 years ago and various climbers in the Frankenjura have attempted it.
I got the tip to try this from Mawi and once I found it, it took me around 10 days to do it, including a lot of beta changes up until the last day.
Doing it didn't feel too bad, after a tiny but very significant change in beta.
I still think though that 8C is an appropriate grade for it and I believe its the hardest boulder in the Frankenjura at the moment.
And yes, it is named after the Beyoncé song ;-)

Chalk Talk mit Markus Bock - Meister aus der Fränkischen

Source: Red Chili

Wohl kein anderer hat der Fränkischen Schweiz dermaßen seinen Stempel aufgedrückt wie Markus Bock. Ob beim Bouldern oder mit Seil: Die Erstbegehungen am oberen Ende der Skala, die nicht von ihm sind, muß man suchen wie die Nadel im Heuhaufen. Woher Markus seine unerschöpfliche Energie zieht, warum sein Körper nahezu komplett von Tattoos bedeckt ist und was das mit Slayer zu tun hat, erfährst Du hier im Chalk Talk mit Stefan Glowacz.

"S E N T I N E L"

Not the most elegant way to climb a boulder.
Mantle like in Fontainebleau.