Lappnor project/"Burden of Dreams" 9a
Yesterday I had another session on the Lappnor project. The routine that goes into it after all this time isn’t all that exciting; the same warm up, driving an hour on the same road, brushing the all too familiar holds, re-warming up, systematically trying the same sequences in the same order. Some days you feel strong and confident and get totally shut down. Other days you’re not feeling a 100 percent and it could be the best session you’ve had. All logic seems to have gone out the window a long time ago.
Many sessions I wish I could forget. Can’t do a move I’ve done countless of times before. Last highpoint was a year ago. Weeks and months turned into years of uncertainty and self-doubt. Trying to keep that little spark of hope in the back of your mind alive. Walking up to the boulder with all the positivity I can muster, I still can’t ignore what the boulder has become to represent; failure of varying degrees.
Sitting under the boulder I can feel the weight of it. Pulling on always feels like a déjà vu, like the thousands of times before. It always starts the same way and ends the same way. Except this time. This time was different.
Snap to reality, I’m hanging on the lip of the boulder, disoriented, heart racing. Contain the panic. I’m on top of the boulder trying to grasp how I got there. Lots of feelings coinciding; surprise, relief, happiness, confusion. As reality hits that quickly turns into ecstatic happiness with a dash of disbelief.
Waking up today I can’t help but look at the world with different eyes. Having achieved the first ascent of Burden of Dreams marks a new level in my climbing. With a handful of existing 8C+ boulders in the world,
proposing 9A is the logical step.
Huge thanks to my friend Marko Siivinen for showing me the line! What a journey it’s been!
Stay tuned for a film of the whole story with the boulder. It will be something extraordinary!
"Bügeleisen" Sit Start
Nalle Hukkataival On "The Bügeleisen" Sit Start 8C (+)
Klem Loskot's masterpiece, The Bügeleisen Sit Start has long been one of the most coveted boulder problems in the world. Finnish climber Nalle Hukkataival has made several attempts on the line and says, ‘it turned out to be the biggest battle I've ever had with a climb, both mentally and physically.’ In April 2014, Nalle traveled to Maltatal, Austria for another attempt. In the past, he has been frustrated by the weather and this attempt was to be no exception. Watch him battle rain, humidity, and some incredibly difficult moves for a shot at one of the most difficult and beautiful sends in the world.
"Bouldering in Norway"
This is a short film about the bouldering in and around Vastervik, Sweden. Located in the midst of the country's beautiful forested archipelagos lie lots of high quality boulders of various rock type, from granite to quartzite! Watch the climbers Guntram Jorg, Nalle Hukkataival, Carlo Traversi, Andy Gullsten, Caroline Sinno, Layla Mammi, and of course Stefan Rasmussen, the local and main developer of Vastervik.
Find a topo of Vastervik at 27crags.com and vastervikclimbing.se
"The Island" in South Africa
The Island in South Africa - Featuring Daniel Woods, Dave Graham, Nalle Hukkataival, Courtney Sanders, Michele Caminati, Chad Greedy and some random critters in Rocklands during July and August 2012.
Lots more footage of this trip is out there on island.io and dpmclimbing.com
"Gioia" by Christian Core
From the documentary "i Core, my climbing family" the climbing sequence on the hardest boulder problem in the world: Gioia, 8C+, Varazze, Italy. Climbed by night by Christian Core in September 2012. First Ascent by Christian Core in 2008, repeated in 2011 by Adam Ondra.