„Launch Pad project” by Ryuichi Murai

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Last day best day!
Just before the gate closed, realized my dream “Launch Pad project”!

In the process of completion, struggled with many physical and mental factors.. severe finger skin damage from sharp granite, 0℃ cold condition, two low-probability savage cruxes..etc.

but the sense of fulfillment gained after overcoming them is immeasurable.
It was best day to find growth in my climbing life????

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Ein Beitrag geteilt von Ryuichi Murai / 村井隆一 (@ryu____1)

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“Road to Tokyo” by Keenan Takahashi

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Keenan's first trip to Japan wasn't supposed to be a climbing trip...

Climbs in order: Butterfly Effect (V13/8B), Asagimadara (V15/8C), Fūjin (V14/8B+)

“Dai's Video Diaries Vol.6”

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Payback time for ‘Unplugged’. Documenting a trip to Germany with redpoint of ‘Corona’ 5.15a, and other highlights on Frankenjura in autumn and clips of attempts on Unglugged in 2008.

Source: Ikuko Serata

We have completed and released “Dai's Video Diaries Vol.6” in December, 2017, and two short films from this Volume titled “NAYUTA V16” and “FRANKENJURA” became available on Vimeo from January this year.

They are on sale now and getting a lot of attention, and we hope that greater more number of climbers all over the world will be excited to see them. This video volume is the latest of DVD series we have been producing since 2005, called “Dai's Video Diaries” with Volumes 1 to 6. Digital downloading service on Vimeo (account is project_daihold) has been provided from 2015.

Link: NAYUTA V16
This film portrays Dai Koyamada’s joy of finding a ‘dream line’, days of attempts with aspiration for success and the moment he completed the line he dreamed of. (49min)

Link: FRANKENJURA
Payback time for ‘Unplugged’. Documenting a trip to Germany with redpoint of ‘Corona’ 5.15a, and other highlights on Frankenjura in autumn and clips of attempts on Unglugged in 2008.

Ikuko Serata
Mail : project@daihold.com
Manager : Climbing Gym Project
Director : Daihold Inc,.

“ISOLADO”

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Dai Koyamada’s short movie “ISOLADO” V14

Nayuta, ~8C+, first ascent by Dai Koyamada

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Dai Koyamada in Nayuta 8c+


Björn Pohl - UKC 06/Apr/2017
Nayuta,~8C+, Gero, Japan
© Ikuko Serata

Dai Koyamada has made the first ascent of his super project at Gero in Japan. The name of the problem is "Nayuta" and the suggested grade ~8C+. The way I understand it, Nayuta follows the line of Nehanna(Nirvana), ~8B+/C, (FA 3 June 2016) and then links straight into "Puresemu", ~8B+ (FA 12 June 2016).

Dai discovered the project two years ago and says that it has been his main goal ever since, even though he, at the time, couldn't even imagine himself linking the two very difficult problems. He realised he needed to improve his endurance while keeping his strength, so he trained hard at the gym, went to the Frankenjura to climbe routes and continued working his other projects in Japan. 4 April, after several days of concentrated effort, Dai could make the first ascent of his hardest problem to date. And while shouting, the right hand grasped the last big hold firmly. I stood up on the rock and sat down and looked up at the sky, I saw a beautiful moon.

That time came at last.

Dai commented on Instagram:

"As I’ve already mentioned briefly, I’m happy to announce that I made the first ascent of my super project in Gero, Japan on April 4th.
And I decided the name of my super project. It’s ‘Nayuta’. Nayuta literally means an extremely great number or beyond the existing things. Regarding the grade, I suggest V16 because it’s the hardest problem I’ve ever sent in my life but I think some repeats are required to be fixed. It’s a 27-move problem.
I’m now very relieved and happy to send this project before my physical limits. This is just one of the major milestones and I won’t stop! I’ll keep climbing hard!"

Video - footage of trying hard

Stratos

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比叡 デルビヨ(四段-)

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Derbiyo V12

スポルティバチームの撮影で同行し訪れた比叡ボルダー。
みなさんのご厚意で撮影の合間に登らせていただき、とてもうれしいお土産となりました­。
めちゃめちゃカッコイイ岩をダイナミックかつシンプルなムーヴでまっすぐに抜ける、素­晴らしい課題でした。
グレードは初登者ブログの通りに表記しました。

コロージョン 鳳来

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First female to climb V15

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REEL ROCK Film Tour

Big news! 14 year old Ashima Shiraishi has just become the first female and the youngest person ever to climb V15, with the second ascent of Dai Koyamada's spectacular 25 move roof problem, Horizon, in Hiei, Japan.

After working the problem in December, Ashima returned during her spring break from school, and sent it today on her third day on. Our crew was there to capture her historic achievement for this fall's #REELROCK11 Film Tour.

Photo: by Brett Lowell.

Dai Koyamadaon Horizon, Mt Hiei, Kyushu, Japan © Ikuko Serata

Daniel Woods in Shiobara

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day1. "HYDRA V13" & "CARTHARSIS V14" day2. "HYDRANGIA V15"