Nayuta, ~8C+, first ascent by Dai Koyamada
Björn Pohl - UKC 06/Apr/2017
Nayuta,~8C+, Gero, Japan
© Ikuko Serata
Dai Koyamada has made the first ascent of his super project at Gero in Japan. The name of the problem is "Nayuta" and the suggested grade ~8C+. The way I understand it, Nayuta follows the line of Nehanna(Nirvana), ~8B+/C, (FA 3 June 2016) and then links straight into "Puresemu", ~8B+ (FA 12 June 2016).
Dai discovered the project two years ago and says that it has been his main goal ever since, even though he, at the time, couldn't even imagine himself linking the two very difficult problems. He realised he needed to improve his endurance while keeping his strength, so he trained hard at the gym, went to the Frankenjura to climbe routes and continued working his other projects in Japan. 4 April, after several days of concentrated effort, Dai could make the first ascent of his hardest problem to date. And while shouting, the right hand grasped the last big hold firmly. I stood up on the rock and sat down and looked up at the sky, I saw a beautiful moon.
That time came at last.
Dai commented on Instagram:
"As I’ve already mentioned briefly, I’m happy to announce that I made the first ascent of my super project in Gero, Japan on April 4th.
And I decided the name of my super project. It’s ‘Nayuta’. Nayuta literally means an extremely great number or beyond the existing things. Regarding the grade, I suggest V16 because it’s the hardest problem I’ve ever sent in my life but I think some repeats are required to be fixed. It’s a 27-move problem.
I’m now very relieved and happy to send this project before my physical limits. This is just one of the major milestones and I won’t stop! I’ll keep climbing hard!"
Video - footage of trying hard
First female to climb V15
REEL ROCK Film Tour
Big news! 14 year old Ashima Shiraishi has just become the first female and the youngest person ever to climb V15, with the second ascent of Dai Koyamada's spectacular 25 move roof problem, Horizon, in Hiei, Japan.
After working the problem in December, Ashima returned during her spring break from school, and sent it today on her third day on. Our crew was there to capture her historic achievement for this fall's #REELROCK11 Film Tour.
Photo: by Brett Lowell.
Dai Koyamadaon Horizon, Mt Hiei, Kyushu, Japan © Ikuko Serata
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day1. "HYDRA V13" & "CARTHARSIS V14" day2. "HYDRANGIA V15"
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