"The Story of 2 Worlds"
“The Story of two Worlds” by Christof Rauch
Source: Thomas Lindinger
Back in 2018 my friend Christof Rauch climbed Dave Graham's classic 'The Story of Two Worlds' ( 8C/V15 ) in Cresciano. He got filmed by Pawel Jelonek. A little bit later he also made a repeat of Dai Koyamada's low start. Both ascents meant a lot to him and in his own words: "A dream became reality! When I climbed "The Dagger" for the first time I don't thought that I could climb this problem ever! But a few weeks ago I found some new microbetas and it felt so much easier. At first I made a teamascent of the normal start together with Pawel. Afterwards I checked out the lower moves with no big expectations. Sometimes it seems like this is the key to success and after a hell of a fight I stood on top of this amazing boulder and nabbed the second ascent. Thanks to the awesome crew!"
“The Story of two Worlds” by Sebastian Cotting
Dai Koyamada "The Story of Two Worlds" low start V16
Samuel Ometz "The Story of 2 Worlds"
Giuliano Cameroni - The Story of 2 Worlds 8c
Giuliano Cameroni - The Story of 2 Worlds 8c from Giuliano Cameroni on Vimeo.
„The Wheel of Life“ (FA) by Dai Koyamada opened 2004
The Wheel of Life is a famous boulder problem in the sport of rock climbing. Located in Hollow Mountain Cave in the Grampians of Australia and initially graded 8C+ (V16), it is now commonly considered to be 8C (V15).
The problem, which consists of over 60 moves, was first completed by Dai Koyamada in 2004, and it links up three shorter problems that were established by climbers such as Klem Loskot and Fred Nicole (Extreme Cool, V8; Sleepy Hollow V12; Cave Rave, V13)
“Dai's Video Diaries Vol.6”
Source: Ikuko Serata
We have completed and released “Dai's Video Diaries Vol.6” in December, 2017, and two short films from this Volume titled “NAYUTA V16” and “FRANKENJURA” became available on Vimeo from January this year.
They are on sale now and getting a lot of attention, and we hope that greater more number of climbers all over the world will be excited to see them. This video volume is the latest of DVD series we have been producing since 2005, called “Dai's Video Diaries” with Volumes 1 to 6. Digital downloading service on Vimeo (account is project_daihold) has been provided from 2015.
Link: NAYUTA V16
This film portrays Dai Koyamada’s joy of finding a ‘dream line’, days of attempts with aspiration for success and the moment he completed the line he dreamed of. (49min)
Payback time for ‘Unplugged’. Documenting a trip to Germany with redpoint of ‘Corona’ 5.15a, and other highlights on Frankenjura in autumn and clips of attempts on Unglugged in 2008.
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Manager : Climbing Gym Project
Director : Daihold Inc,.
Nayuta, ~8C+, first ascent by Dai Koyamada
Björn Pohl - UKC 06/Apr/2017
Nayuta,~8C+, Gero, Japan
© Ikuko Serata
Dai Koyamada has made the first ascent of his super project at Gero in Japan. The name of the problem is "Nayuta" and the suggested grade ~8C+. The way I understand it, Nayuta follows the line of Nehanna(Nirvana), ~8B+/C, (FA 3 June 2016) and then links straight into "Puresemu", ~8B+ (FA 12 June 2016).
Dai discovered the project two years ago and says that it has been his main goal ever since, even though he, at the time, couldn't even imagine himself linking the two very difficult problems. He realised he needed to improve his endurance while keeping his strength, so he trained hard at the gym, went to the Frankenjura to climbe routes and continued working his other projects in Japan. 4 April, after several days of concentrated effort, Dai could make the first ascent of his hardest problem to date. And while shouting, the right hand grasped the last big hold firmly. I stood up on the rock and sat down and looked up at the sky, I saw a beautiful moon.
That time came at last.
Dai commented on Instagram:
"As I’ve already mentioned briefly, I’m happy to announce that I made the first ascent of my super project in Gero, Japan on April 4th.
And I decided the name of my super project. It’s ‘Nayuta’. Nayuta literally means an extremely great number or beyond the existing things. Regarding the grade, I suggest V16 because it’s the hardest problem I’ve ever sent in my life but I think some repeats are required to be fixed. It’s a 27-move problem.
I’m now very relieved and happy to send this project before my physical limits. This is just one of the major milestones and I won’t stop! I’ll keep climbing hard!"
Video - footage of trying hard
short movie 2015 "kyushu" part7
dai koyamada's short movie 2015 kyushu part7 from project_daihold on Vimeo.
short movie 2015 "kyushu" part6
dai koyamada's short movie 2015 kyushu part6 from project_daihold on Vimeo.
short movie 2015 "kyushu" part5
dai koyamada's short movie 2015 kyushu part5 from project_daihold on Vimeo.
short movie 2015 "kyushu" part4
dai koyamada's short movie 2015 kyushu part4 from project_daihold on Vimeo.