'Säbelzahn'
This week was one of my most successfull ever as I climbed my second 8B/V13 within a few days called 'Säbelzahn'. The first one was 'Wirbeljet' on Monday. Back than I also got close on sending both the same day. Two restdays later I returned and it worked out first try of the day. Overall it took me five sessions to climb it. Four of them with a different beta for the end which might be the reason why I didn't do it one or two sessions quicker.
'Wirbeljet'
"Wirbeljet" is in my opinion one of the best 8B boulders in the Frankenjura. It's location is unique and nice. The holds and the rockquality convince. The moves are fun and it has an obvious start and top, which isn't self-evident in the Frankenjura. The icing on the cake: it's always shady and therefore guarantees good conditions even when it's sunny and warm. Overall a perfect spot for hard bouldering.
Flying Potato
This boulder should be one of the most unique spots you've seen for climbing. It's in the Frankenjura and there's only this one line to climb up the bloc. It's called 'Flying Potato' [fb 8A+] and was established by Andre Behr.
When you know other boulders that are as unique as this one, then write a comment down below. I'm pretty psyched to see what the world has to offer in this context!
"Pushed Aside" by T. Lindinger
Pushed Aside, opened by Bernhard Schwaiger in 2005, deserves a recommendation. It's a nice line with pure and powerfull moves. There's nothing to complain about. Therefore everyone who's able to climb that hard should give it a try. Originally it was graded 8B/+. In my opinion it's rather 8A+/B.
"Spannungsprüfer Variation"
A few weeks ago I climbed the straight line through the roof called 'Spannungsprüfer' which was established by Markus Bock already in 1999. A friend then told me that there's another nice boulder that climbes from the left into Spannungsprüfer and is ~ fb 8B. He didn't know it's name and I couldn't find it out until today, but it's a nice climb and it doesn't matter how it's called in the end. Last sunday I went there to try it. First it felt impossible but I could find a nice beta which made it doable. On that day I was to tired from checking the moves, but yesterday I could execute it luckily, although the conditions where less than perfect.
"Lucifer" by Thomas Lindinger
With 'Lucifer' Markus Bock opened just another testpiece in the Frankenjura. Although it's extreme low to the ground it's fun and with a thin pad dabbing isn't a problem any more.
Magic Wood 1.0 | Switzerland
During our four day trip to Magic Wood we were able to climb Wovenhand [fb 8B] and Gulliver Kante [fb 7A+] among others. Both boulders are included in this video and shall get you syked for outdoor bouldering or whatever.
First problem is the stand start to Ill Trill, the iconic 8B+/C boulder from Paul Robinson. Wovenhand was established by Bernd Zangerl who also found this wonderfull line in earlier times.
The second one is one of the most classic edges in Magic Wood. If you like straight boulders with small holds it's defenitely worth a try.
The gear I use:
Clothing https://www.prana.com/
Shoes http://www.scarpa-schuhe.de/
Equipment https://www.petzl.com/
Thanks for watching. Stay tuned and don't forget to subscribe to my channel :)
For more information about Magic Wood check out:
1. Gashaus Edelweiß http://www.valferrera.com/
2. Bodhi Climbing https://www.bodhi.ch/
3. Bouldertopo https://www.gebro-verlag.de/gebro/MWbloc.htm
