"Lucid Dreaming"...a story
Day 1. on "Lucid Dreaming" (V15, 8C)
Very surprised to have done the jump move to the crimp in a few tries! I did it to the top (starting from the pinch and undercling) for good measure and also to gauge the slab.
I also did the first couple of moves but haven't stuck the glassy pinch move just yet.
This Boulder has a bit of everything: power, crimps, a (tiny) pinch, a jump, a slab and throw in a 60 foot top-out for good measure.
It's been a while since I've been really excited by a boulder or climb but this line is pretty cool!
Day 1. on "Lucid Dreaming" (V15, 8C)Very surprised to have done the jump move to the crimp in a few tries! I did it to the top (starting from the pinch and undercling) for good measure and also to gauge the slab.I also did the first couple of moves but haven't stuck the glassy pinch move just yet.This Boulder has a bit of everything: power, crimps, a (tiny) pinch, a jump, a slab and throw in a 60 foot top-out for good measure.It's been a while since I've been really excited by a boulder or climb but this line is pretty cool!#bishop #buttermilks #climbing #bouldering #sportclimbing2020 #roadtrip Walltopia Mammut La Sportiva
Posted by Sean McColl on Mittwoch, 25. November 2015
Day 2. "Lucid Dreaming" (V15, 8C)
Today I managed to sneak in 3 attempts before I deemed it "a bit" too sunny for further tries.
I am still learning how to grab the nasty undercling and after these tries my middle finger digit was a bit bruised.
The good thing about today was that I stuck the glass pinch from the bottom. I've now done every move...
In the end, my first try was the best of the day (clip above).
Day 2. "Lucid Dreaming" (V15, 8C)Today I managed to sneak in 3 attempts before I deemed it "a bit" too sunny for further tries.I am still learning how to grab the nasty undercling and after these tries my middle finger digit was a bit bruised. The good thing about today was that I stuck the glass pinch from the bottom. I've now done every move...In the end, my first try was the best of the day (clip above).#bishop #buttermilks #climbing #bouldering #sportclimbing2020 #roadtrip @walltopia @mammut_absolute_alpine @lasportivagram @clifbarcompany @joerockheads @skratchlabs #nutraxis #canada
Posted by Sean McColl on Freitag, 27. November 2015
Day 3. "Lucid Dreaming" (V15, 8C)
I only got to try the Boulder 2 times this morning before getting a pretty nasty cut on my ring finger
The good news is that I stuck the pinch from the ground on both my tries; on the latter try, I thought I was going to stick the crux but my hand did not comply and fired off the pinch
Each day I feel like I progress on the problem by either climbing higher or perfecting a move. With the Boulder being only 4 moves, I hope I'll be able to send it soon!
Video by Brennannnnn
Day 3. "Lucid Dreaming" (V15, 8C)I only got to try the Boulder 2 times this morning before getting a pretty nasty cut on my ring fingerThe good news is that I stuck the pinch from the ground on both my tries; on the latter try, I thought I was going to stick the crux but my hand did not comply and fired off the pinchEach day I feel like I progress on the problem by either climbing higher or perfecting a move. With the Boulder being only 4 moves, I hope I'll be able to send it soon!Video by Brennannnnn#bishop #buttermilks #climbing #bouldering #sportclimbing2020 #roadtrip @walltopia @mammut_absolute_alpine @lasportivagram @clifbarcompany @joerockheads @skratchlabs #nutraxis #canada
Posted by Sean McColl on Samstag, 28. November 2015
Day 4. "Lucid Dreaming" (V15, 8C)
If I had to put a label on this day, it would be "skin issues".
4 days without success and the first wave of doubt started to hit me... How many times can/will I fall on the last move?
I am trying to think of the positives, I need to hit the pinch just right, I've been hitting it ever so slightly too high.
I took the rest of the day off and will be back with a taped up tip tomorrow morning.
Day 5. "Lucid Dreaming" (V15, 8C)
My morning sesh was below par; I accept that I need to take a real rest day, probably 2, realistically maybe 3 (especially for my skin). It's funny how the smallest subtleties can make the difference especially when it's at your max level.
Today was also the first day where I didn't enjoy working the Boulder; I'm here to have fun, climb outside and enjoy the outdoors after such a long indoor season.
This line is amazing but if I can't enjoy the process then I'd prefer to move on.
Day 6. "Lucid Dreaming" (V15, 8C)
I regret to inform that the clip above will be my final effort on this Boulder in 2015.
On that attempt, I sheared off my right pointer finger's tip. I had a handful of really good attempts this morning but it unfortunately never clicked perfectly.
I can genuinely say that the process of working this Boulder was fun even if it's not the outcome I hoped for. These are the some of the hardest moves I've ever done in my climbing career, I did every move but just couldn't piece it all together.
Lastly, I'd like to thank everyone who has posted or followed me through this adventure. I hope that I could give a glimpse of what it is like trying something near the upper limits of climbing.
As my good friend @jamie_chong once told me, "There's always another day..."
Day 6. "Lucid Dreaming" (V15, 8C)I regret to inform that the clip above will be my final effort on this Boulder in 2015.On that attempt, I sheared off my right pointer finger's tip. I had a handful of really good attempts this morning but it unfortunately never clicked perfectly.I can genuinely say that the process of working this Boulder was fun even if it's not the outcome I hoped for. These are the some of the hardest moves I've ever done in my climbing career, I did every move but just couldn't piece it all together.Lastly, I'd like to thank everyone who has posted or followed me through this adventure. I hope that I could give a glimpse of what it is like trying something near the upper limits of climbing.As my good friend @jamie_chong once told me, "There's always another day..."#bishop #buttermilks #climbing #bouldering #sportclimbing2020 #roadtrip @walltopia @mammut_absolute_alpine @lasportivagram @clifbarcompany @joerockheads @skratchlabs #nutraxis #canada
Posted by Sean McColl on Donnerstag, 3. Dezember 2015