Anna Stöhr - 8b+ und 8b am gleichen Tag

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"NEW BASE LINE 8b+/V14 and "STEPPENWOLF" 8b/V13

Stoehr bouldert im Averstal 8b+ und 8b an einem Tag.

 

Auf dem Instagram-Account von Alex Puccio konnte man heute folgende Nachricht lesen.

My good friend @anna_stoehr  just had an inspirational and AMAZING day bouldering!

She send "NEW BASE LINE 8b+/V14 and "STEPPENWOLF" 8b/V13 in Magic Wood on the same day!!!

Psyched for you!!!

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Nachtrag: und hier die Info von Anna auf ihrem Instagram-Account.

...sometimes you can surprise yourself.... today i climbed 'steppenwolf' 8b and 'new base line' 8b+... after checking out the moves for the first time on saturday i did both problems today.

Huge thank you @alfons_dornauer  for the psyche and the pic!!
Video of my send of nbl coming soon.

Squire VS Switzerland | Part 2

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One year later I decided to make the return trip to Magic Wood. Another amazing trip with some unfinished business. There will be a part 3...

Squire VS Switzerland | Part 2 from Beastly Squirrel on Vimeo.

Practice of the Wild – Beta Video!

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Two sections of footage linked together for 'Practice of the Wild' in Magic Wood. I'll be back!

Practice of the Wild - Beta Video! from Beastly Squirrel on Vimeo.

Practice of the Wild (Dave MacLeod)

Nothing Changes

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Kim De Wolff sends Nothing Changes (fb 8A/V11) in Magic Wood, Switzerland

Nothing Changes 8A Magic Wood from de Wolff on Vimeo.

Dave MacLeod - Practice of the Wild 8C

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FRI NIGHT VID + INTERVIEW: Dave MacLeod - Practice of the Wild 8C
by Natalie Berry - UKC 27/May/2016

We recently reported on Dave MacLeod's ascent of his first 8C boulder - Practice of the Wild in Magic Wood, Switzerland. A new film in which Dave talks about the process of training for and working the problem has been released by Dark Sky Media and Mountain Equipment. Dave claims he is climbing harder at the age of 37 than he was 10 or 20 years ago - but what has allowed for this improvement? As is typical of Dave, steely dedication and a meticulous approach to training proved essential.

Watch the film and read our interview to find out more...

Had you tried many other 8Cs previously?

No I don’t think I’d tried any. Most of my bouldering is on unclimbed stuff in Scotland. I’ve only had a couple of trips to Chironico around ten years ago and then a few trips to Magic Wood in the last three years.

What made you choose to try Pratice of the Wild as your first 8C, and when did you first try it?

I tried it in 2012 on my first trip in Magic Wood. I couldn’t do any of the hard moves but I just thought it looked like a really inspiring line.

Would you say it was of a particular style that suited or did not suit you?

Well you have some opportunities to use your feet on it, so in that sense it would suit me because I’m pretty weak and need to use my feet. I also did some okay links on In Search of Time Lost (8C) while I was there and that is definitely my anti-style: pure power and fewer chances to make the moves easier with footwork. I’d love to go back and try it someday. If I could do that, I’d definitely have made some real progress in my strength.

For more informations and pictures: ukclimbing.com

unedited shit

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Some unedited footages from last year and this year.

Boulders in order of appearance:

Joyeux Léon, La balmaz
Mother night, Schöllenen
Mr Elegant, Magic Wood
Deliverance, Chiroico
Conquistador direct, Chironico
Quark (FA), Wassen
Frontline, Chironico
Second life, Chironico
Ninja skills, Sobrio

Climbers in order of appearance:
Samuel+Baptiste Ometz, Giuliano Cameroni, Sébastian Cotting

Thanks to Prana, La sportiva, Petzl, Five ten

unedited shit from Samuel Ometz on Vimeo.

"Three Magic Wood" V14s

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"New Baseline"

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"Believe In Two" 8c - Magic Wood

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Erstbegehung von "Believe In Two" 8c im Magic Wood.

Source: chriswebbparsons.com

Im Averstal wurden in den letzten Tagen 2 potentielle neue Boulder im Grad 8c erstbegangen. "Il Trill" von Paul Robinson und aktuell "Believe In Two" von Chris Webb Parsons.

Das Boulderproblem startet mit dem Klassiker "Steppenwolf" und zieht dann gleich nach rechts weg. Es handelt sich hierbei um ein altes offenes Projekt, dass durch Chris befreit wurde. Chris schreibt auf seiner Webseite, dass es sich bei "Believe In Two" um sein derzeit schwerstes Boulderproblem handelt und das die Bewertung seiner Meinung nach standhalten wird.

Sein Freund Christian Core erzählte ihm, dass es mit dem Direktausstieg zu "One Summer in Paradise" eine neue mögliche Linie geben würde.

Kurzerhand putzte Chris die Griffe und versuchte sich an dieser neuen Variante.
Nach einigen Versuchen konnte Chris die Linie erstbegehen und taufte das neue Boulderproblem "Tough Times", wofür er anfangs den Grad 8b vorschlug.

Nach diversen Diskussionen mit seinen Spottern, bewertete er den Boulder schließlich mit 8b+, da die neue Variante bedeutend schwerer sei als "One Summer in Paradise"

 

"Il Trill", 8C Magic Wood (FA)

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Great temps in Magic Wood allow for new 8C by Paul Robinson

Quellnachweis: 27crags.com
Pictures: Stefan Schlumpf

Wie auf 27crags.com zu lesen ist, konnte Paul Robinson einen neuen Boulder im Grad 8c mit dem Namen "Il Trill" erstbegehen. Um die 13 Züge erfolgreich aneinanderzureihen, benötigte er sechs Tage. Verglichen mit den anderen High-end Bouldern im Gebiet, darunter "Practice of the Wild" 8c - (FA) Chris Sharma 2004, dem Paul 2008 die erste Wiederholung abrang, schlägt er den Grad 8c vor.