Will Bosi upgrades Nova to 8C

Will Bosi has made the second ascent of Jana Švecová's Nova, 8B+, at Moravian Karst, Czech Republic, and has given the boulder an upgrade to 8C. 

If the upgrade stands, it would makes Švecová's ascent of Nova the world's first 8C first ascent by a woman, and the fourth female ascent at the grade chronologically.

Speaking to us earlier today, Will said:

'Time-wise, Nova is one of the longest boulder projects I've had! I think compared to the Swiss 8C's I've done, Nova is definitely harder!'

'Compared to a lot, but not all, of the UK 8C's I've done, I think it's harder too. For example Isles of Wonder SDS (f8C+) which I downgraded to 8C only took three sessions, and is definitely not my style. It's hard to compare to the longer ones at Badger Cave, but compared to some of my Raven Tor lines it definitely feels more in line with the harder ones'.

source: www.ukclimbing

Bouldering project "On The Edge"

At the tramway terminal station in Brno (my hometown), there is a hidden gem.
A quarry from volcanic rock, that offers few, but good quality boulder problems.
And an old project that was abandoned for a few years, but its striking line have always attracted.
Check out how it turned out in the next video.

“Ledoborec” FA by Adam Ondra

Besides training for my long-term competition fitness, I took advantage of good conditions in spring in Moravian Karst to have a few projects. Besides Brutal Rider 8C+, there was one more 8C+ project which is not a project anymore. I know it is just a linkup, not necessarily the best line, but I felt I had to do it. The idea of linking those 28 moves, consistently intense, felt almost impossible, but there was one trick that made it possible. A kneebar, that looked impossible to release the hands at first, but everything is trainable. Check it out in the next episode.

“Brutal Rider” FA by Adam Ondra

Over the last 10 years, I have been neglecting hard outdoor bouldering, mostly either focusing on competitions or when focusing on rock climbing, sport climbing (with rope) always had priority. Bouldering was more of a tool for training. But around my home, there are hard bouldering projects. They might not be the best lines ever, they usually lack topouts, but they are hard, they are there and they simply need to be sent, especially as the moves are usually intricate and interesting! This spring I have had more time to focus on them. Watch the first ascent of Brutal Rider 8C+ (V16) in the next episode! The boulderproblem is long, it has 25 hard moves and could also be graded as hard 9b sport route. Last time, when I did an 8C+, was 10 years ago. It is a lower start into Ghost Rider, an 8C first ascended by Martin Stráník last year. And it links "Brutus", an 8A+ (Brutus exits left into relatively easy terrain) into the start of Ghost Rider.

Adam Ondra - Flash it!

Czechia lacks hard sport climbs that I haven't tried but it offers plenty of hard boulders as I have been neglecting outdoor bouldering for many years. Whenever I have possibility to flash a boulder problem I always give it a try!

The next episode includes flash attempts of 8B+ and 8A+. Especially the 8A+ is a world class bouldering.

Credits: Story by ADAM ONDRA

Adam Ondra #49: Adam Is Trying One Finger Pull-Up

The next episode is about fierce power. Petr Dumpík, a little known climber from a small village outside of Brno, can make one arm pull up only on his pinkie and not only that - he can drink a glass of beer while doing that. Check out his story, the way of his training and also two hard routes at the local crag. I hope we can train together in autumn, so I can get stronger on pockets. I will need it for sure, for some of the projects I have in my mind.

Thumbnail picture by: Pavel Klement

Road to Tokyo #41 „Pucmeloun“

The next episode is bit of a climbing "porn". Don't worry, nothing wrong for the kids.. except for some swearing. There is nothing else but some real good old-school climbing without too many unnecessary cuts and too much talking. The first ascent of Pučmeloun 8C (hard) in Sloup, Moravian Karst. Enjoy!

Productive Day in Moravian, by Adam Ondra

Productive day in Moravian Karst

Nunavut 8C FA
Pučmeloun 8C FA
Intensitos 8B FA

One of the best days bouldering for sure. Both 8C's are projects that I have had in my mind for a some time, I had tried them quite a bit in the past, I knew they were possible, I just needed to wait for the perfect day. And the day was yesterday. High psyche after a stint of indoor climbing, and perfect late autumn conditions. Both went down first try this time after rechecking the moves.
Pic by @konecnik


The best body type for climbing

What is the best body type for climbing. Tall or short? Skinny or muscular?
We dig into this a little bit more and try to answer it in the new Road to Tokyo episode.


‚Ghost Rider‘

Moravian Karst is an area where I started climbing and it still remains very special for me. It is definitely a climbing area where I spent the most of the time, ever! Great thing is that it still offers serious challenge for me, especially in bouldering. The next episode of RtT shows me making the second ascent of Ghost Rider 8C after Martin Stráník opened it this summer.