First time in Rocklands
Spending three weeks in Rocklands, I did a couple of cool problems.
Pinotage SD 7C
The art project 8A
Out of balance 8A
Leap of faith 8A
Ray of light 8B
Strategic balance 8A
Oral Office 8A+ (no dyno beta)
Golden Virginia 8A
Flying guitar thief 8A
Anna Laitinen - The Hatchling
Anna Laitinen in Fragile Steps
Exploring+Projecting in Cederberg
The development in the past few weeks in the Cederberg has been insane! Katerina flew home for her graduation and my buddy Fernando flew in to check out the new stuff in the area. We have been hiking a ton and finding incredible new lines on a near daily basis
Oriane Bertone (12 yrs) in Golden Shadow, 8B+, Rocklands
Oriane Bertone, 12 years old, just sent Golden Shadow (8B+) in Rocklands !
A 12 ans Oriane Bertone vient de réussir l’exploit de sortir son premier 8B+ bloc, Golden Shadow à Rocklands ! Un record, jusqu’ici détenu par Ashima Shiraishi lorsqu’elle avait sorti justement ce même bloc, à 13 ans.
ROCKLANDS - Bouldering on Orange Sandstone | South Africa 2017
Currently nearly every climber went to Rocklands (Alexander Megos, Nalle Hukkataival, Dave Graham, ...).
We've already been there a few months ago to enjoy some awesome weeks bouldering on orange sandstone.
Now we proudly present our short film of our South Africa trip 2017.
This video features some of the best boulder problems in Rocklands (grades between 6C and 8A).
Relax and enjoy the adventure!
01:09 Slash and Burn 7B (de Pakhuys - Twin Boulders)
01:59 Mannerheim Roof 6C (The Pass - Roadcrew)
02:30 Demi Lune 6C (The Pass - Roadcrew)
03:01 Death-proof 7A (de Pakhuys - Secret Wall)
03:33 Colin the Librarian 7A (The Pass - Fortress)
04:40 Stalker on the Horizon 8A(?) (The Pass - Rhino Boulders)
06:08 Downclimb Dyno 6C+ (8 Day Rain - Jungle Bar)
06:43 Panic Room 7A+ (de Pakhuys - Fields of Joy)
07:36 UPDATE: Roman Diplomacy - F.A. by Sam Houle (Taj Mahal Sector)
08:04 Lolita 6C (Taj Mahal Sector)
08:30 Rohypnol 6C (Amphitheatre Sector)
09:06 Chutney Variation 6C+ (8 Day Rain - Upper Valley)
09:34 Down with Words 6C (de Pakhuys - Arch Valley)
10:06 Orange Heart 6C (The Pass - Roadcrew)
10:57 Where do you go from here? 7A (Lower Pakhuis - Champside)
11:30 Like a Squirrel 7A+ (de Pakhuys - Dihedreal Boulders)
11:54 Lord Greystoke 7B(?) (Kliphuis Campground - Campground)
12:27 Hill Start 7A (The Pass - Roadcrew)
12:46 Hole in One 7C+ (de Pakhuys - Long Wall)
13:23 Pocket Power 7A (Kliphuis Campground - Campground)
14:04 No Hand Solo 6B (Kliphuis Campground - Campground)
14:29 Minik 7B (de Pakhuys - Far Plateau)
15:13 Question of Balance 7B (The Pass - Roadside
16:00 Perfect 6C+ (Powerlines Sector)
16:50 Throw yourself away 7C+ (de Pakhuys - Hidden Boulders)
18:17 Ron Ron Diagonal 7A (Kliphuis Campground - Campground)
18:47 Esoterrorist 7A (de Pakhuys - Arch Valley)
19:16 Sex Etiquette 6C (de Pakhuys - Arch Valley)
19:50 Mufasa 7A+ (Kliphuis Campground - Campground)
20:28 One with the Freaks 7A (de Pakhuys - Arch Valley)
21:16 F.A. Excelsior 7B (8 Day Rain - Upper Valley)
22:02 F.A. 2m Away from 9127km away from Frankenjura 7A+ (8 Day Rain - Upper Valley)
23:07 The Roof is on Fire 6C (The Pass - Roadcrew)
24:02 Vanity 7A+ (8 Day Rain - Trackside)
Charles Albert in "Monkey Wedding"
Charles Albert climbs "Monkey Wedding" 8c barefoot.
Dave Graham in "Monkey Wedding"
“Massive war WON!!!!! HUGE!!!!!! One of my ultimate-global-nemisis-projects, the legendary @fred_nicole problem Monkey Wedding [8C] which chills in the center of one of Rockland's most popular sectors. Last season I tried the boulder quite a lot, for at least 12 days, but could never seem to improve my highpoint, or do better than one hang the beast, which is only ten moves long. This year I returned partially uncertain of whether or not I could even summit this small peak, my confidence dashed by last years failure. Right off the bench I discovered more intelligent beta, resequencing my old crux, and matched my previous links. Sadly the war continued for another 6 days. I was confused by the conditions, normally cold weather is my jam, but my cursed sweaty fingers never seemed to stop sweating while I sat at basecamp, about two meters from the start of the rig, amidst all types of cold blustery weather, but it was always smarmy and humid somehow. One day, my window presented itself; super hot and a northerly wind, directly from the dry deserts of Africa, I felt something, potentially like an opportunity. I cruised out to Roadside, booted up, warmed on the moves, made a try, fell at the crux, felt great, rested a moment, pulled on, and from that moment on, it was this surreal mind bending experiance. It felt too chill, almost like all the dreams Ive had of ever sending, yet it was real and terrifying, it was my chance to fall off after the crux...but that never happened. I ended up on top, a suprised and happy man, liberated, unleashed, humbled, proud, potentially wiser, and feeling ridicoulous. The moral is, even if you don't believe in yourself, even if you describe a boulder as being built against you, the opposite of your style, outside of your entire box, "impossible" for some reason, if you will. Like you should have done it by now if you were gonna ever do it. You are wrong. You can suceed. You can do anything. Its like the kitten poster from the Lego Movie...which I forget exact wording to. Buzzin.”
Marmot athletes Jorg Verhoeven, Katha Saurwein, and Jon Glassberg live the bouldering dream in Rocklands, South Africa. Join the crew on a fantasy tour of the finest climbs the area has to offer from old classics to new projects.
More information at www.marmot.eu
Produced by: Louder Than Eleven (lt11.com)
Original Score: Fizzix Productions (fizzixproductions.com)