Puccio and Woods in Ticino

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Daniel Woods and Alex Puccio crushing classics in Val Bavona and Brione in Ticino, CH.

Boulders in order: Wie im Urlaub (7C+), Amber (8B), Heritage (8B+), Brionesque (8A), The Kingdom (8C)

Video//Edit by Keith Allen Peters

Primitivo 8C/V15 First Ascent

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Primitivo is one of the best new problems in the world situated in Val Bavona, in Ticino, CH. FA circa April 2019.

Climbers:

Isabelle Faus
Daniel Woods
Giuliano Cameroni
Jimmy Webb

Filmed by the crew//edit by Giuliano

'N I N J A - S K I L L S' 8C/8C+ - FA

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How far does your perseverance stretch? Three years of effort, over 150 sessions, -6ºC in 50cm of snow, all-night 12 hour sessions, then 25ºC in July... Ninja Skills Sit Down Start was Martin Keller's ultimate nemesis. In this short film, join Martin on his journey as he discovers the secret to unlocking his first ascent of Ninja Skills 8C/8C+ (V15/V16)

Nestled in between chestnut trees on a south facing slope in Sobrio, Switzerland, the 8B+ (V14) stand start for the famous Ninja Skills was first climbed in 2009 by Nalle Hukkataival.

First Ascents by G. Cameroni

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8c+/V16 First Ascents

In February 2019, Giuliano made the first ascent of two of the hardest boulders in Ticino, CH: “Poison The Well” in Brione and “REM” in Cresciano.

'Off the Wagon' sit

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Shawn Raboutou climbs the first ascent "Off the Wagon" sit (V16/8C+) in Val Bavona, Switzerland. Video filmed and edited by Shawn Raboutou. November 27, 2018

'From Dirt Grows The Flowers'

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Chris Rauch sends the classic Dave Graham boulder 'From Dirt Grows The Flowers' fb 8C/V15 in Chironico. With this sent he adds another highend testpiece to his impressive scorecard.

Delusion of Grandeur

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Isabelle Faus climbs the first female ascent of Delusion of Grandeur (8B/V13), one of the most classic boulders of Chironico, Switzerland. April 9, 2018. Filmed by Giuliano Cameroni.

"The Story of 2 Worlds"

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“The Story of two Worlds” by Sebastian Cotting

Dai Koyamada "The Story of Two Worlds" low start V16

Samuel Ometz "The Story of 2 Worlds"

Giuliano Cameroni - The Story of 2 Worlds 8c

Giuliano Cameroni - The Story of 2 Worlds 8c from Giuliano Cameroni on Vimeo.

Jan Hojer "Dreamtime"

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The biggest sensation since Midnight Lightning: as well as introducing the first 8C, Fred Nicole's Dreamtime in Cresciano also sparked the bouldering boom in the Ticino region and all over the world.

"Off the Wagon"

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Giuliano Cameroni in "Off the Wagon"

Source: lacrux.com

Der Tessiner Giuliano Cameroni zieht mit Charles Albert von Block zu Block und lässt verlauten, dass ihm "Off the Wagon" (8b+) gelang. Während eines Versuches kam es aber zu einem üblen Abgang, wie das nachfolgende Video zeigt.

Der Boulder "Off the Wagon" im Val Bavona wurde erstmals durch Nalle Hukkataival Im November 2012 begangen. Illustre Namen wie Jan Hojer und Jimmy Webb folgten. Nun gelang Giuliano Cameroni der Durchstieg der hübschen Linie. Sein Kommentar: “Took me ~12 days over almost two months but eventually I did Off the wagon (8b+). After failing on the first move for 8 days I thought that it was just too powerful for me. Then Charles came and found a crucial foothold, which allows to stick the crimp without loosing the feet. The move was still very difficult and low-percentage, but at least it was possible. After a day of weakness where I saw the light, I fell like a bag of potatoes holding the swing on the jug. I thought I would do it soon. I was wrong.”

Dave Graham mit einem weiteren Puzzleteil

Irgendwie kam Giuliano der Sache bis auf den finalen Zug näher. Ein Tipp von Dave Graham schaffte dort Abhilfe. Nun war nur noch das Wetter, wie Giuliano erzählt: “Me and Charles were a little under pressure especially because weather was turning shit. Luckily I had a window last Friday. He almost did it too, but fell because of a silly mistake.. The feeling you get when you link those moves is inexplicable, but for once it felt like I wasn’t doing any special effort and everything was just perfectly clicking together.”

Hier das Video auf lacrux.com