Jan Hojer "Dreamtime"
The biggest sensation since Midnight Lightning: as well as introducing the first 8C, Fred Nicole's Dreamtime in Cresciano also sparked the bouldering boom in the Ticino region and all over the world.
"Off the Wagon"
Der Tessiner Giuliano Cameroni zieht mit Charles Albert von Block zu Block und lässt verlauten, dass ihm "Off the Wagon" (8b+) gelang. Während eines Versuches kam es aber zu einem üblen Abgang, wie das nachfolgende Video zeigt.
Der Boulder "Off the Wagon" im Val Bavona wurde erstmals durch Nalle Hukkataival Im November 2012 begangen. Illustre Namen wie Jan Hojer und Jimmy Webb folgten. Nun gelang Giuliano Cameroni der Durchstieg der hübschen Linie. Sein Kommentar: “Took me ~12 days over almost two months but eventually I did Off the wagon (8b+). After failing on the first move for 8 days I thought that it was just too powerful for me. Then Charles came and found a crucial foothold, which allows to stick the crimp without loosing the feet. The move was still very difficult and low-percentage, but at least it was possible. After a day of weakness where I saw the light, I fell like a bag of potatoes holding the swing on the jug. I thought I would do it soon. I was wrong.”
Dave Graham mit einem weiteren Puzzleteil
Irgendwie kam Giuliano der Sache bis auf den finalen Zug näher. Ein Tipp von Dave Graham schaffte dort Abhilfe. Nun war nur noch das Wetter, wie Giuliano erzählt: “Me and Charles were a little under pressure especially because weather was turning shit. Luckily I had a window last Friday. He almost did it too, but fell because of a silly mistake.. The feeling you get when you link those moves is inexplicable, but for once it felt like I wasn’t doing any special effort and everything was just perfectly clicking together.”
Hier das Video auf lacrux.com
Lorenz Ulmer ascending Bernd Zangerl's ultra classic "Vecchio Leone" [fb8B|V13] in Brione, Switzerland.
New years in ticino
Alex Khazanov bouldering in Ticino, Switzerland. it was an amazing trip with great people, food, and boulders.
boulders in order of appearance:
la pilier 8A FLASH (reclimbed for the camera)
the dagger 8B/+
big kat 8B+
Some unedited footages from last year and this year.
Boulders in order of appearance:
Joyeux Léon, La balmaz
Mother night, Schöllenen
Mr Elegant, Magic Wood
Conquistador direct, Chironico
Quark (FA), Wassen
Second life, Chironico
Ninja skills, Sobrio
Climbers in order of appearance:
Samuel+Baptiste Ometz, Giuliano Cameroni, Sébastian Cotting
Thanks to Prana, La sportiva, Petzl, Five ten
Lorenz Ulmer sending '
Confessions [fb 8B] in Cresciano Switzerland.
Tune: Black Sabbath- Paranoid
Ticino Royale | Brione
"No Mystery" (low)