La Force Tranquille
Daniel Woods on the First Ascent of La Force Tranquille V15
La Force Tranquille V15 - Nalle Hukkataival
"The Creature from the black lagoon"
by Björn Pohl - UKC 29/Sep/2016
Daniel Woods has fiinally climbed through his mental barrier and made the first ascent of The Creature from the black lagoon, ~8C+, at the Upper Chaos Canyon at Chaos Canyon, Colorado.
The Monster from the black lagoon is the low start to Leviathan style, ~8A, and Daniel says "...it felt like v15 to get into the stand of leviathan, no rest, then soft 11 to the top."
He also says that he could do all the moves and link a few of them already on day one, but that it, as so often is the case, turned into a mental battle.
I finally got to the point where I was sure it was in the bag. More days passed and I continued to fail. I would link multiple times from just 3 moves in to the top, but could never add in the first 3 relatively easy moves. This tripped me out considering that the Boulder had essentially been climbed haha. I became worried that I had already mind fucked myself and would have to wait for a new season to start fresh and see the bloc through with another set of eyes. Motivation to climb something is funny in that way. I go through this same struggle with everything challenging that I try. I beat myself up because I know it's there and overcoming mental disbelief is the most satisfying feeling for me in climbing. I had false confidence in the beginning with this thing, and that is what led me into a war of attrition. Luckily, can just look back at all those failed attempts over the course of 15 days and smile.
About the difficulty, he says: I believe this line is harder than most 15s I've done so why not call it 16... and that the same level in bouldering has maintained from Fred Nicole, Bernd Zangerl, and Klem loskot a decade ago until now. We can either acknowledge what is a level up from the standard of 15 (based off of consensus over the years) or continue climbing v15 for another decade.
This was Daniel Woods' third ~8C+ after Hypnotized minds, which he put up back in 2010, and The Process at the Buttermilks., which put up in January last year. The former didn't see a repeat until this year, when Rustam Gelmanov made a relatively quick repeat, the latter lost parts of a crucial hold shortly after the first ascent. Whether it's still roughly of the same difficulty remains to be seen.
Let's hope it doesn't take too long for Daniel's new creation to get repeated.
Daniel Woods climbs the first ascent Everything Gneiss, V14 in Clear Creek Canyon, CO.
Daniel has now established the three hardest bps in the canyon:
- Everything Gneiss, V14
- Echale, V14
- Dark Waters, V13
"The Wheel of Life"
Jorg Verhoeven on „Wheel of Life“
Die Marmot PRO Athleten Jorg Verhoeven und Katharina Saurwein legen auf ihrer Australien Reise einen Stopp in den Grampian Mountains, einem der besten Boulder- und Sportklettergebiete der Welt, ein. Als Teil der Grampians „BIG 4“ klettert Jorg den Boulder-Klassiker „Wheel of Life“ (V15) und kann einen Haken mehr in seiner Kletter-„Lifelist“ setzen.
Daniel Woods on „Wheel of Life“
Daniel Woods in Shiobara
day1. "HYDRA V13" & "CARTHARSIS V14" day2. "HYDRANGIA V15"
"The Island" in South Africa
The Island in South Africa - Featuring Daniel Woods, Dave Graham, Nalle Hukkataival, Courtney Sanders, Michele Caminati, Chad Greedy and some random critters in Rocklands during July and August 2012.
Lots more footage of this trip is out there on island.io and dpmclimbing.com
"Hueco Rock Rodeo" 2014
Hueco - "76 V-Points"
At the 2012 Hueco Rock Rodeo Daniel Woods had the best day of bouldering in his life.
He was able to climb 76 v-points in 6 boulders.
The Machinist (v14)
Crook by the Book (V14)
Phantom Limb V12)
Full Monty (V12)
Two Days With Gene (V11)